Tour de France

After a few tastings without a set theme it was decided that the wines of France deserved a special tasting. After all, what other country has so dominated and shaped the world of wine? France is home to the most expensive and sought after examples of vinous excellence, yet there are still regions that remain relatively undiscovered by audiences outside of France with very little making it into international glasses. With so much variety and quality you could spend most of your time drinking wine from France and not get bored.

With the lure or cheaper high quality New World wines it’s easy to pass on French wines, but the more I come to appreciate les vins de France the more I realize that they offer gustatory experiences that cannot be found elsewhere. If you want to understand Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, or any of the countless varieties that originate in France, you have to try them from where they have the longest history, where they are made better because they have been grown and turned into wine for generations.

Although we covered wines from most of the major regions of France we ended up a little heavy on the Southern regions and didn’t have Champagne or Alsace as planned. In the future we’ll hopefully focus on each region individually.

Burgundy
2005 is widely regarded as one of the best vintages for Burgundy in recent times. Here we have examples from both ends of the Côte d’Or: a Chambolle-Musigny (Côte de Nuits) and Volnay (Côte de Beaune). Both are elegant more ‘feminine’ styles of Pinot.

2005 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes – Frédéric Magnien
Pleasantly perfumed with a floral spice, cherry and raspberry, earthy beetroot, and some Pinot funk (a.k.a. barnyard). Still good after 24 hours in the decanter with its sweet perfume intact and showing more black fruit. This should age nicely a few more years. 88-91 Burghound: red and blue berry, spice, earth, “…structured middle weight flavors that possess lovely detail and nuance though the finish features well integrated but notable firm tannins”. $55.95 91

2005 Volnay – Joseph Drouhin
Round and elegant, this wine has a suave mouthfeel and expressive nose with notes of cherry, wood smoke/incense, light vanilla, loam, and mild barnyard. With air a tar-like scent develops. Like the Magnien Chambolle it also has a sweet fruity perfume characteristic of Pinot Noir. The vanilla, wood smoke and high spice notes show some of the barrel’s influence. I like the interplay of the spice and sweet perfumed notes. $52.55 90

Bordeaux
The best know and most utilized varieties of the region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. The most prestigious wines are usually second only to those of Burgundy in terms of price. Although Bordeaux is primarily know for its red wine the appellation of Sauternes has carved out a reputation for making some of the best dessert wines in the world from grapes affected by botrytis.

1994 Château Léoville-Barton
It was nice to have an example that has been cellared for a while. The nose is pretty expressive with sweet cassis, cured tobacco leaf, light herbs and sweet cedar. Strangely has some astringency that appears briefly on the finish before fading just as quickly as it came. The biggest let down with this wine was the abrupt finish (a quick review of the notes at Cellar Tracker revealed we were not the only ones to experience this). 90 Wine Advocate: serious, classic Bordeaux, a 30 year wine. 90 Wine Spectator: berry, chocolate, tobacco, chewy tannins. $98.20 90

2004 Château Guiraud
An okay vintage as opposed to the 2001 (excellent) and 2003 (very good), but this still had more punch than I was expecting. Gobs of beeswax, vanilla, pineapple, spice (botrytis), peach, and even a little Riesling like petrol hiding in there. Not as concentrated as the 2003 Suduiraut (below), but still good. 92 Wine Spectator: spicy, with dried apricot and lemon character. $39 92

2003 Château Suduiraut
Darker and with more body and concentration than the 2004 Guiraud. Good acidity and long finish. Beeswax and lanolin, a fine sweet smoke like element, dried pineapple (this reminded one taster of Bulk Barn bins). 93 Wine Spectator: pecan pie, dried apricot, apples, syrup, dense mouthfeel, long, powerful and spicy aftertaste. 19/20 The Wine Doctor: “Really meaty, ripe and opulently textured. Lovely substance here, fresh acidity, and stunningly precise, persistent flavours. This is divine. Of every wine at the UGCB tasting, this is the only one I would come back to for pleasure rather than reassessment”. 22/25 Wine Journal (.com): “The palate is well-defined, very elegant: poised like a ballerina on tip-toe”, “One of the best wines of 2003”. $44.65 94

Côtes du Rhône
The wines we tried were all from Southern Rhône which are quite different from those of the north due in part to the choice of grapes. In Southern Rhône Grenache takes the dominant role with Syrah, Mourvèdre, and sometimes Cinsault making it into the mix (along with a gamut of minor grapes).

2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Domaine Grand Veneur
I was very impressed by this wine which I think was at the beginning of its peak drinking window. It was impactful with very open aromas of fine spices (pepper) and garrigue with leather, blackberry, almond, cherry, and floral liquorice. Can’t mistake the origin of this wine, it has Châteauneuf-du-Pape all over it. After the tasting I found out that Wine Spectator rated this wine a mere 86 in its buying guide commenting “not complex”. Wine Advocate scored it 90. Once I calibrated my palate my initial score of 95 dropped a bit, but I still think this wine was underrated and doesn’t take into account how well it aged. $30-40 94

2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Clos Saint Jean
Straight out of the bottle it was acidic and lean but quickly deepened and opened up to a dark balanced wine. Blackberry, black cherry, complex spice nuances of garrigue and cloves, and a sanguine undertone (iron, blood). This will age well which was evident from the fact that it tasted great 3 days later showing extra nuances of pine/under brush. 93 Wine Spectator: fig, currant paste, mocha, loam, tar, licorice. 93 Wine Advocate: incense, melted licorice, blackberry, and sweet cherry, the wine is peppery, spicy, “…superb example of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that should drink well for 10-15 years”. $45.95 93+

2004 Gigondas – Château du Trignon
Lots of spicy high notes (white pepper mostly) and a bitter-sweetness that reminds me of dark chocolate (as other tasters also noted). Kind of like a spiced chocolate with Herbs de Provence and fruit. Grows on you. 91 International Wine Cellar: blackberry, cassis, lavender and graphite, long juicy finish. $27.95 89

Languedoc-Roussillon
Often overlooked, this region produces many wines on the same level as Southern Rhône but for much more agreeable prices. There are plenty of bargains to be found.

2004 Barbabelle – Marc Kreydenweiss
This biodynamic wine from the Costières de Nîmes appellation shows Grenache characteristics of spice and raspberry/cherry with some mineral. Nice balance, not overly done. I noticed some salty liquorice candy and cider/tar notes during re-evaluation the next day. There is also some Carignan and Syrah in the blend. Can’t argue with the quality to price ratio here. $12.95 90

2003 Grande Cuvée – Château de Lancyre
It’s easy to confuse this with something from the Rhône with its spice box, cherry gum, bay leaf, chalk and mineral aspects. I thought it was solid, but was missing some depth. 92 Wine Spectator: savory spiced aroma, dark plum, mocha, spice, impressive structure. $27 89

Loire
Seeing as we had enough wine on the table I chose to forgo the Loire Cabernet Franc I’m so fond of and focus on another overlooked varietal that does particularly well in the cooler climes of the region: Chenin Blanc.

2006 Vouvray Demi-Sec – Château Moncontour
This came across with an almost Riesling like minerality and a very expressive, open nose of apple, plasticine, sweetgrass, and flowers. The ripeness is balanced with a crisp acidity (i.e. those who didn’t like any sweetness in their wines were still able to appreciate this) showing evidence of a well timed harvest. One taster noted “first-aid kit” much to our amusement, but I can see where he was coming from, I just chose to call it plasticine (a modelling clay). Quite palate filling and enjoyable. $17.95 92

2003 Coteaux du Layon Saint Aubin – Domaine Cady
Very concentrated with an almost ice wine like power, but not as syrupy. Green ginger, subtle smoky wood spice, with a rich fruit compote of kumquat and apricot. A little chemical spicy note when it warms up, best served cold. Could have done with a touch more acid to liven it up. If you are so inclined, this will age well for a few years. $25.95 90

The Red of Loire - Cabernet Franc

Underappreciated
The red wines of Loire have to be some of the most overlooked of France, and I’ll admit they were overlooked by me until recently. Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Côte du Rhone garner the most attention and praise, which is evident in the pricing of wines coming from these regions and by the number of well published reviews they get. The farther you get from France the less likely anyone has heard anything about Loire; even within France Loire keeps a relatively low profile. Red wine from Loire is conspicuously absent from the North American market, where if you do see a wine from Loire it’s probably a white from Sancerre.

I think the reason the wines of Loire are so underappreciated and underrepresented internationally has a lot to do with the current preference for highly extracted, heavily oaked, super ripe, dense wines – characteristics that a wine from Loire will not have, and I hope never will. I love a rich and ripe wine, but sometimes I crave something a little different, something that shows more character unique to where it is from. Another factor working against these wines is the few who have had a wine from Loire had one that was thin and overly herbaceous leading them to avoid the wines altogether.

The most notable red wine from Loire is primarily made from Cabernet Franc (know locally as Breton) and in most cases is 100% Cabernet Franc. Up to 10% Cabernet Sauvginon is allowed but not frequently utilized. Under-ripe and over-cropped Cabernet Franc can produce aggressive green notes of vegetation, leaves, and green bell pepper – not very pleasant. But if yields are low and the conditions are right Cabernet Franc can make wines with elegance, depth, and loads of character. Violets, tobacco, fig, and strawberry are common aromas in wines made from Cabernet Franc.

Here are the reasons I think more people should give Cabernet Franc from Loire a first or second look:

1. The best examples have a floral perfume and elegance not unlike some Burgundian wines.


2. They are ideal food wines because they are not overly tannic or heavy and have good acidity; instead of distracting from the food they compliment it.


3. The wines communicate the uniqueness of Cabernet Franc and their terroir very well.


4. They are very expressive aromatically.


5. Great value. Since they are not highly sought after the best wines still have moderate prices. You will notice that none of the wines reviewed below are over $25 and my favourite turned out to be under $14. Couly-Dutheil’s flagship wine Clos de l'Echo Crescendo regularly comes in under $50 even with the LCBO’s markup (the 2003 received 93 from Wine Spectator). It really doesn’t cost much to explore these wines.

The bottom line: intriguing wines verging on under priced that go well with a wide range of food. What’s not to like? I was sold after I tired La Coudraye from Yannick Amirault for the first time despite the fact I wasn’t expecting much. Drinking my first 2003 La Coudraye was one of my most memorable wine moments of 2007, and it kindled my passion for the region.

Appellations
The wines below come from appellations in the heart of the Loire valley which produce the best Cabernet Franc. On the north bank of the Loire River is Bourgueil with similar wines and soils as Chinon across the river which is mostly limestone and some gravel beds. Wines from Bourgueil are thought to have slightly more aging potential than those from Chinon. Yannick Amirault is regarded by many as a master in Bourgueil. Neighboring Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil which is on more sandy soil makes wines that is slightly less full bodied than those from Bourgueil. Saumur Champigny is on the south bank of the Loire next to Chinon, its soil is more chalky. Saumur Champigny regularly puts out good Cab Franc, but I found some examples to be less elegant than from elsewhere in Loire. Langlois Chateau and Clos Rougeard are names to look for in Saumur Champigny.

Vintages
2003 was a very warm year in Loire as it was through most of Europe, this allowed proper ripening of the grapes and the wines are less likely to be overly green. 2003 looked like it would be hard to top but 2005 was also warm and has been declared a vintage of a lifetime for Loire as it was in Bordeaux. Keep an eye out for 2005s which should be just making it to shelves.

Reviews
Some may disagree with the ratings I’ve assigned for these wines. I think the high marks are warranted because I found these wines so engaging. For those who might not find this style of wines as captivating I would remove a point or two. If you hate medium or light bodied wines, detest any greenness, and prefer power to elegance than give these wines a pass – more for me!

2003 ‘La Coudraye’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
This wine from Bourgueil shows off very characteristic aromas and flavours of Cabernet Franc. I usually dislike green/herbaceous or stemy notes, but here it is not overpowering or aggressive and it adds character and charm. It reminds me of dried leaves (think forest floor in autumn) with earthy clay and red fruits, mainly raspberry and figs. There is a faint metallic tinge, but it well integrated. I especially like the nose which is quite expressive and full with all the elements well defined. Not a heavy or dense wine, but it has a certain charm that has me grinning as I bury my nose in the glass. $17.95 91

2003 ‘Les Quartiers’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
Once again I am charmed with the character and poise of Yannick Amirault’s Cabernet Franc. The nose has a remarkable perfume of raspberry and sweet cigarette smoke (at least to me it does) that reminds me very strongly of the way a former girlfriend smelled when she had been smoking. There is a faint greenness. This is lighter in body than La Coudraye, making it a little too light for me, but it pairs well with a wide range of foods. Although Les Quartiers is generally considered better than La Coudraye I was not as taken by it. $23.95 89

2004 ‘La Grand Clos’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
The signature green notes of Cabernet Franc mingle with stone, bright cherry, and apple cider notes. There are some rough floral notes (violet), some spice, but to me it is a touch bretty (kind of like a horse stable). Good length and concentration but slightly off balance. $20.90 89

2005 Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil – Domaine de la Chesnaie
This has the most pronounced and enthralling nose I’ve smelt in a while, its floral character reminds me of a Pinot Noir. An amazing perfume of violet, cherry, raspberry, and smoky leaves, but what made this so special to me was the addition of a sweet musky spice that seemed to be a combination of cigar box, cinnamon, and fruit. I had my nose in the glass for a long time just savouring the fragrance. Soft unaggressive tannins. Entry to finish the wine is consistent. Nicely poised. And the price warrants buying a few more bottles I think! $13.80 92

2004 ‘Lieu-dit les Vignoles’ Saumur Champigny – Cave de Saumur (Alliance Loire)
Aromas of red plum and raspberry with noticeable dried leaves, black olive, and intriguing sandalwood incense. There is a mellow metallic edge that comes out with some time in the glass. It makes for interesting sniffing but in the mouth it is lean and the tannins are a bit rough and puckering on the finish, this can be remedied by drinking it with a meal. It is certainly not a sipping wine for most palates. There are some vegetal tinges but it is offset by the smoke and fruit and I don’t find it overpowering. Short finish with a hawthorn aftertaste that reminds me of haw flakes. $15.85 86

2004 Saumur Champigny – Domaine du Ruault
At first this is close to being weedy with light bell pepper and smoky tobacco leaf. With some time I also get bitter cocoa nibs and the green dissipates and gives way to aromas that remind me of a campfire (from the barrel toast). Red fruit, unripe fig, thyme, with minimal soft tannins. $13.85 87

2004 ‘Le Bretonnière’ Saumur Champigny – Langlois Chateau
The colour is a darker than the two previous wines from Saumur Champigny. Silky tannins and a somewhat weighty almost oily mouthfeel which pleasantly surprised me. Sweet red fruit (raspberry, strawberry), slight metallic edge to the nose, fall leaves, and campfire. With more inspection: tobacco, hints of blackberry, and a light spice note that is vaguely similar to garam masala. It’s very drinkable with a lingering light and savoury finish that is almost elegant. $17.75 90

2003 ‘La Baronnie Madeleine’ Chinon – Couly-Dutheil
Couly-Dutheil’s is considered on of the top wineries in Chinon. The herbaceousness one might associate with Cab Franc is almost non-existent in this ripe wine which partly reflects the conditions of the warm 2003 vintage. Strong raspberry, strawberry, and even some plum with spicy oak lending cedar and white pepper notes. There are undertones of leather too. Nice attack and finish. The mid-palate is light, but not in a bad way, rather the wine glides through the middle to a firm finish full of smoky, floral spice and a suggestion of dark chocolate adding some depth. Out of all the Loire reds reviewed here it is the most beefy and will benefit from a short cellaring. Great value in my opinion! $18.80 92

Vintages – June 10, 2006 Release

Not too many products caught my eye in this release, but I did find 2 wines I was intrigued enough to buy. I was also contemplating the 2003 Château L’Hospitalet ‘La Réserve’ Rouge ($18.95, and 92 from Wine Spectator), but never got around to it (thankfully for my wallet).

Here are the two I decide to get:

2004 Chenin Blanc - Kanu
It’s been a long time since I’ve had a South African Chenin and this one was quite enticing rated at 90 by the Wine Enthusiast. I was definitely not disappointed. Honeydew melon and pear mingle with floral honey and candied orange peel all of which lingers nicely with the smooth finish. On the nose I detect something slightly green (peas?). Smells like it may have been left on the lees a while. A bit of sweetness, but just enough acid to make it a nice food wine. The pear and melon remind me a lot of a Pinot Grigio. Great value, I bought 2 more bottles. $11.95 VG-E

2003 Mucadet de Sèvre et Maine (Sur Lie) – Domain de Grand Maison (Langlois- Château)
Not as perfumed as I was expecting from a Muscadet, nor is it very floral. Light lemon/grapefruit with strawberry patch aromas and some ‘greasy/resinous’ mineral undertones (I guess this is what the Vintages notes refer to as ‘mineral and pine resin’). Maybe some melon aromas? What impressed me was despite the light character of this wine the mouth feel and weight were fabulous; very full round texture (the time on lees has something to do with that probably). However, strongly flavoured food will overpower this wine so pair it accordingly. $13.95 VG