Mostly South America

This tasting was based around the theme of South America. Argentina is known for its Malbecs and Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile has been recognized as having the potential for high quality for some time now, so naturally these were the most obvious groupings to structure the tasting around. For good measure a Malbec from Cahors, France was thrown in to compare with the Argentine versions. My ratings were assigned without knowing the Wine Spectator scores to avoid any bias.

Chilean Cabernet

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – Domus Aurea (Viña Quebrada de Macul)
This was an elegant wine that displayed licorice candy, wine gum, thyme, red plum, and juicy raspberry character. A light barrel toast comes through in just the right proportion. This wine has a sweet edge and fine tannins, not a burly Cabernet. It reminds me of the 2005 Croix de Beaucaillou. Wine Spectator scores this 93 points: loam, mint, dark currant, fig and cigar smoke, plush texture, a beautiful rendition of cool climate Cabernet. My notes read very differently but I do agree that this is a great rendition of cool climate Cabernet. $39.99 USD 91

2005 Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon – Santa Rita
Right away the smoky effects of the barrel toast are apparent here along with green bell pepper herbaceousness which made it easy to distinguish from the Domus Aurea even when the bottles were blinded. The finish is a little tart and tannic but there is some dark fruit in the middle to hold it up. Lots of mulberry and a pure cassis aroma mingled with vanilla and that greenness. More heavy than the Domus Aurea, but the barrel toast and greenness make it less appealing to me. Wine Spectator scores this 91 points: tobacco, currant paste, loam, muscular structure, cedar, roasted vanilla. International Wine Cellar and Wine Enthusiast both score this 90. Now that I know what this costs I have to say it’s a good value. $19.95 90

2003 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon – Concha y Toro
More depth and length than the previous two Cabs. Vanilla, black fruit (blackberry and plum), sweetened cranberry, light coffee and cigar tobacco with mineral tones to keep it interesting. Very suave wine with depth and class. Not every taster was as taken by this wine as I was, in fact a comment was made that the more aggressive style of the Medalla Real was preferable - wine is after all to a large degree about personal taste. Overall though, it was agreed that this was the best Cab of the lot. Wine Spectator’s 96 point scoring also supported the group consensus: currant, cocoa powder, dark fig, blackberry, loam, cedar, tobacco, mineral and coffee, long and authoritative finish that sails on. Reading the Wine Spectator notes now it’s interesting too see how closely they compare to mine. $70 USD 94

Malbec

2003 Catena Alta Malbec- Catena Zapata
After the Cabs this was a real change of gears. The overtness of this wine appealed to a broader range of tastes. Salty, sour plum, licorice, dark fruits, mineral and a long fruity and salty finish. I’m always reminded of salty licorice candy or preserved salty sour plums when I have a good Argentine Malbec, and those characteristics were certainly evident here. 94 from Wine Spectator: flashy and seductive, blue fruits, exotic mocha and spice notes. Definitely flashy! $50-60 USD, around $60 CDN 91

2004 Le Cedre – Chateau du Cedre
A massive wine! The phrase “It’s punishing, but I like it!” was used frequently, and with good reason. This has immense grip and hefty tannins that need 5-10 years to mellow out. It is mouth puckeringly astringent on the finish but full of tobacco, light floral elements, sandalwood, and cherry cola characteristics that are very entertaining. Only with lots of time in the glass does the sour salty plum I associate with Malbec come out, compared to the Argentine versions which display this right out of the bottle. Frankly, I like this more than the more overt Argentine style because there is more structure and depth. Wine of the Night for Adam and I. 95 from Wine Spectator: “Very elegant, with concentrated flavors of dark cherry, raspberry and cassis. Massively structured, with intense dark chocolate notes and plenty of rich spiciness”. Looks like we agree. $49 95

Also had a 2004 Alta Vista Alto which was flawed. It was not the wine Wine Spectator described as, “Big and bold with tar, loam, and bittersweet cocoa…core of black currant and plum fruit…Flashy, and pulls it off.” 93. Another flop was the 2006 Montes Alpha Syrah which was not up to the 90 Toronto Star rating but not obviously flawed.

2008 Gourmet Food and Wine Expo

Yet another year at the Expo. Overall I found the wines less exciting than previous years, but there were still some gems. I scored all of these before finding out what the critics’ ratings were, so you can see how my notes and ratings compare.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Clos Pegase
The alcohol came through in the nose along with the barrel toast (vanilla and charred wood). Very ripe plum, cured meat, chocolate, fruity finish, but the heat and dusty wood overwhelm at this point in time. Not as plush as I was hoping. 92 from Wine Enthusiast: ripe currant, cassis, chocolate and licorice flavors, luscious. $50.95 89

2004 Château Le Carillon
At fist whiff there is a dirty diaper like odour that dissipates with some swirling (really not as off-putting as it sounds, honest). Strawberry and cherry, dark stewed fruits, bay leaf, and mineral. Elegant and not too heavy or overdone. 92 from Toronto Life: ripe cherry, plum, leather, mocha, and anise; sweet, elegant and poised, with excellent length. $ 39.95 90

2003 Print Shiraz – Mitchelton
This wine was a nice surprise! The staff who were pouring this one had to convince me to try it, and I wasn’t expecting much as I’d never heard of it before. Rich black fruit laden nose (mulberry, blackberry) with a distinct salty savoury character that reminds me of the 2004 Astralis I had a while back (but this is a fraction of the cost). I find this salty savoury character in a lot of my favourite top end Shirazes, here it reminds me of soy sauce and a sea breeze. Very grippy finish – this will age well. Unbeknownst to me at the time Wine Spectator scored it at the same 92 points. I bought one to cellar for 5 years or so. $44.75 92

2004 Barolo Lazzarito – Vietti
Aromas of faint dried roses, red wine gums, anise, toasted bread. The typical Barolo tar note is here but it seems like a thin, weaker version. Lean and still needs some time, but not something I’ll be adding to the cellar (especially at this price). 93 Wine Advocate: dark fruit, smoke, licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak. 95 International Wine Cellar: minerals, brown spices, Cuban tobacco and menthol. I agree more with the Wine Advocate notes, but not the score based on sample I had. $120 89

2004 Château Climens
This has a nice waxy nose with caramel popcorn, honey, citrus and the mouthfeel is rich and thick with good weight and balance. Good Barsac for sure. 92 from Wine Spectator: “…apricot tart, with hints of candied lemons on the nose. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with lovely concentration and a lemony, spicy, almost flinty aftertaste. Impressive for the vintage.” $129 (750mL) 93

2004 Alion
Alion was started by the legendary Vega Sicilia in Ribera del Duero in 1991. This was more New World than I was expecting with evident oak and the Tempranillo character I like so much was not at the forefront, but will probably become more evident with age. Sweet ripe cherry, cassis, faint cedar and tobacco, and a light floral element lingering in the aftertaste. 96 Wine Advocate. $80.95 91+

2005 Croix de Beaucaillou
This is the second wine of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, and not a bad one at that. Light and lifted aromas of strawberry cheesecake, raspberry, and light herbs. The wine is pleasantly soft around the edges and finish. It is accessible now and should drink well in the short term. Looks like agree with Robert Parker on this, he scores it 91 as well. $57.95 91

1979 Crême de Tête – Château Gilette
It’s not often that I get to try a Sauternes that is this old, let alone aged in concrete vats. After shelling out $22 for a 1oz sample I was intrigued by what I sipped, but ultimately this is something I would not buy even if it was cheaper. Rich caramel, citrus peel, some smoke. Turns a little sour and oxidized tasting on the finish. There is a definite mineral aspect to it but not the normal vinous kind, more like water that has been stored in a clay vase. Considering how long it is stored in those concrete vats I’m sure it’s more than just suggestion that it smells and tastes of clay pot. Light amber in colour and faint floral and beeswax notes. I think I prefer my Sauternes oak aged. $195 (500ml) 90

1996 Château Calon-Ségur
This came across very green and smoky – I’m having flashbacks of Niagara. Raw bell pepper, cassis and spices, and savoury herbs. A bit lean and tannic. The finish is not that long. The oak is still strong and the amount of astringency this still has suggests that this can still age another 5-8 years. 92 from Wine Access: “The 1996 may not be as profound as I had predicted from cask, but it is an exceptional wine. Dark ruby-colored, with a complex nose of dried herbs, Asian spices, and black cherry jam intermixed with cassis, it possesses outstanding purity, and considerable tannin in the finish. This classic, medium to full-bodied, traditionally made wine improves dramatically with airing, suggesting it will have a very long life”. $167 90

West Coast Cabernet Comparison

There are many locations along the West Coast of North America that are well suited to growing wine grapes. California, Washington, Oregon and British Columbia all have well developed wine regions. For Cabernet Sauvignon the obvious appellation to look to on the West Coast is the Napa Valley.

An interesting Cabernet Sauvignon from B.C. showed up at the table recently and I took the opportunity to crack a bottle of the same varietal from the best Cab region on the West Coast for comparison. Both are in the same price range and from the same vintage.

2005 Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Raymond
My initial impression was that this was higher toned and less dark and plush than I was expecting for Napa (not necessarily a bad thing). Warm oak tones of vanilla and cedar with plum and cassis, but also red fruits like raspberry. Some spice and savoury elements add complexity. Vanilla, mint and fruit on the palate, maybe some spicy leather hidden in there. The heat from the 14.4% alcohol does peak out in the finish. This was quite lively and less heavy than I would expect from the producer, vintage, or region. For comparison, I rated the 2002 vintage of this wine 92 points, it was rich and reminded me of Black Forest Cake. Wine Enthusiast gave the 2002 a 90 and this wine 93: elegantly structured wine, sweet tannins, blackberries, spicy cassis, cherry pie, smoky oak. $34.95 91

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon – Mistral Estate Winery
This wine was crafted a little north of Napa in B.C.’s lush Okanagan Valley. Though I haven’t tried many wines from B.C. I was quite pleased to give this one a gulp. The nose reminds me very strongly of a wine I had in a past Tuscan wine tasting, the 2003 Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi, because of the bizarre sweet tomato nose. A great wine for ribs or wings with a sweet and spicy sauce. Slightly cooked plum. Grippy tannins firm up the finish. This wine handles its 14.5% alcohol a little better than the Raymond. Different, not bad, but the positive Cabernet character is obscured. $35 90

Tasting - Any Fine Wine

There was no particular theme to this tasting, just whatever we had kicking around. Some of the wines were tasted blind for fun and there were some odd wines thrown in the mix too. It turned out to be somewhat educational and a little test of our tasting skills.

Also interesting to note is how some wines that you’ve previously enjoyed by themselves can wilt when compared to other wines in a tasting (e.g. you realize how green a wine is in comparison to riper ones).

NV Brut – Piper Heidsieck
Citrus notes of lemon and lime candy, nutty cashew, leesy/toasty bouquet, slight grassy note. I’m not a connoisseur of Champagne but I was pleased with the weight and length of the finish as well as the fine bubbles. Lacks the carbonated/sulfite sharpness that sometimes affects lesser Champagnes. Reasonable price for this quality of bubbly makes it a nice standby. Rated 90 Toronto Life online: cookie, lemon custard, toast, good length. $55.20 90-91

1999 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Caymus
After other vintages flopped in previous tastings we were determined to find one that would show well. Considering that this vintage scored 93 and 92 points from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator respectively we thought things should play out differently this time. The barrel toasting turned off some tasters again, especially as it became more evident with air, but I think it was a touch better than the 2003. Lots of cassis and some green pepper, still has well defined fruit despite bottle aging, cigar box, and some savoury thyme/tarragon notes. Velvety and rich but lacking some complexity. $55+ USD (the 2005 is $80 at the LCBO) 91

2004 Finca Altamira Malbec – Achaval Ferrer
This wine was tasted blind and when I assigned the rating I had no idea that it had scored 95 and 98 points from Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate respectively. After assessing the wine I was sure it was a Malbec (the characteristics were so overt), but my score was low because I though the wine was a little overdone and awkward. Usually my scores are a little closer to the critics, but not in this case. Overtly fruity: salty sour preserved plum (a Malbec indicator for me), cherry, almost tutti-frutti, and blueberry pie. Very expressive aromatically almost perfumed. A little leather and straw. Obviously malo’ed with silky milk chocolate character. Love the powerful nose (one of the best things about Malbec I think) but the experience in the mouth was too fruity and cumbersome for me. $90-115 USD from online search 89-90

2005 Explorateur Barossa Valley Shiraz – The Colonial Estate
Loads of fruit, jammy, full of black olive and iodine which make the varietal hard to miss. Sweet coffee notes. Super ripe, and to me bordering on alcoholic pop, but pleasant enough if you enjoy the style. The fault for me is the lack of tannins which fail to balance the ripeness, they are too soft. 90 in Wine Spectator. 95 Wine Advocate: blockbuster, white pepper, licorice, graphite, finesse and elegance (I really don’t know where Parker got elegance from, maybe he’s had to many over the top wines). $28.80 91

2004 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Chablis – La Chablisienne
Very nutty! Overt hazelnut in nose and palate, clean mineral with light citrus. 90 from Wine Spectator, but no mention of the hazelnut in the review: “taut and steely…lemon and mineral flavours”. Interesting. $24.95 89

2006 Petalos – Descendientes de J. Palacios
This one was a wild card that we tasted blind. Didn’t have a clue as to what it was. This wine comes from a region that none of us were familiar with, Bierzo. Tutti-frutti, cherry pie, spice (white pepper), grippy phenolic smell, pencil lead, weird! 91 International Wine Cellar: cherry, minerality, rose, “this smells like a great Chambolle-Musigny” (what? maybe bad Chambolle-Musigny), raspberry, brisk acidity. $23.75 87

1998 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon – Penfolds
Strong menthol, red fruit, muted barrel toast, cassis, bitter tannins on the finish, tobacco. Almost like menthol cigarette. Interesting for the strong mint character, but a bit monodimensional. Not surprisingly, several others note mint/menthol on Cellar Tracker. 90 from Wine Advocate on release. Thoroughly overpriced, had no idea it was this expensive when I tasted it. $140-200 (depending where you get it) 90

Napa Valley Cabs

When it comes to great Cabernet Sauvignon in the New World, Napa Valley is probably the appellation most likely to cross a wine aficionado’s mind first. Ever since the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 when a Cabernet from Stags Leap (a sub-appellation of Napa Valley) bested several top Bordeaux wines, such as Haut-Brion and Mouton-Rothschild, Napa has been recognized as a home to world class Cabernet Sauvignon.

So far my experience with Napa Cabs has been fairly limited mainly due to their pricing, but also because other varietals have interested me more so far. Thanks to the generosity of fellow wine enthusiasts I was given the chance to do a really interesting taste off of some top Napa Cabs. Thanks a lot guys! As promised here are the tasting notes:

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon – Caymus
Caymus has developed a reputation as a top producer in Napa and this wine was a nice example of what they can do. There is a pronounced smokiness from the barrel toasting that turned off some tasters, but this dissipated somewhat with time in the decanter. The nose has smoked meat, light chocolate, and red fruits (strawberry came out with some air time). It was a little lighter on the palate than I was expecting with a smooth light texture and fine tannins. Some intriguing savory notes as well. 93 Wine Spectator and 94 Wine Enthusiast.

$84.95 90 (There was some debate as to whether this wine did not show as well due to bottle variation.)

It should be noted that none of these wines are pure Cabernet Sauvignon since they are blended with other varietals, which is not a bad thing because this helps balance the wines out. By US law producers are allowed to apply a varietal label as long as at least 75% of that varietal is used.

2002 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon – Chappellet
This Cab is more fruit forward than the Caymus with raspberry, cassis, vanilla, and light caramel coffee elements. It has very fine tannins as well and is even more creamy and balanced than the Caymus. There is less barrel toast evident in this wine making for a better balance with the fruit. 92 from Wine Spectator.
Around $45 USD 91

2004 One Point Five – Shafer
‘One Point Five’ refers to the not quite second generation partnership between father and son of this family owned and run winery. Bearing the Stags Leap District designation, this Cabernet definitely left an impression long after the tasting. Full on rich fruit and vanilla nose with a silky smooth rounded palate that went on for a good while. Nicely layered with distinct caramel notes, very deep. Drinking quite well despite its youth, but it will benefit from some time in the cellar. 2% Petit Verdot. 90-92 Wine Access.
$81 93

2001 Dominus – Dominus Estates
Produced by Christian Moueix of Château Pétrus and many other notable chateaus in Bordeaux it’s not surprising that this wine reminded everyone more of something from France than Napa. It stuck out brilliantly in this tasting, and if you prefer this style over the soft luscious typical Napa Cab then it would probably be your favourite of the five. Less new oak than the others and it also had more acid, grip, and to me - character. Some warm kirsch, cassis, and lilac notes with a nice balance of wood to fruit. Only fault is the finish is slightly hot (despite it having similar alcohol content, 14.1%, its character didn’t seem to absorb the heat as well). 81% Cab Sauv, 10% Cab Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot. 95 Wine Access and 94 from Wine Enthusiast.
$120, approx. $90 USD 94

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon – Etude
Now I have to admit that by this point my senses were a little impaired from the overly generous pours. But I got some notes down before succumbing, they read: “good balance of toasty wood to fruit, touch of pepper, cassis, plum, a little anise which several of us noted (maybe licorice to others), ripe fruit. Even better with airing. Soft like the other Cabs (other than the Dominus), but tannins are well structured. Great length, very good complexity.” I had just enough wits about me to realize this was a really nice wine as did everyone else. I would like to try this wine again when I’m a little sharper. 94 from Wine Spectator, the tasting notes mention spicy currant, cedar, anise (we were right apparently), herb and mineral, polished texture, balanced yet firm tannins. 93 Wine Access and 93 Wine Enthusiast.
$119, $90+ USD 95

The Chappallet and Caymus placed 4th and 5th respectively for everyone. Three of us had the exact same order for our top 3, Etude, Dominus, and then Shafer.

After this tasting I can characterize Napa Cabs (with the exception of the Domnius) as typically soft, ripe, relatively low in acid, and quite plush with fine tannins. Some sweeter vanilla, caramel and chocolate notes are common. Although this style might not be to everybody’s liking I think with a little complexity added into this framework you can get some very hedonistic wine. Personally, I can’t wait to taste more Napa Cabs!

2006 Year End Wines

Over the 2006 Christmas season I had a few nice wines which I’ll share in this post. Nothing too over the top here, just tasty decently priced wines.

2004 'Bushvine' Grenache – Yalumba
At first I get lovely aromas of strawberry and a little raspberry with some spicy elements of vanilla bean and cloves. Nice firm tannins and a long finish with a touch of chocolate. After some time in the glass the spicy accents come out more, as well as some gamey/bacon hints. 91 from Wine Spectator. A sturdy wine for hearty meals. $19.95 90

2005 Pinot Gris – Grove Mill
This was a little riper than I would have liked, but still quite expressive. Some pear/melon that you might expect, but tropical aromas of passion fruit and ripe peach dominate the nose. There is a little spice and acid to balance it somewhat. Some people enjoyed this, but it wasn’t my preference. $19.95 87

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - Raymond
Very well executed; great balance! Very ripe plum and black cherries, caramel and a hint of pepper from the barrel toasting. It reminds me of Black Forest cake. Very fine polished tannins add to the gulpability of this wine. It could stand up to Cabs that are more expensive; I would go as far as to say the 2003 Ornellaia which retails at $139.95 isn’t that much better. It was rated 90 by Wine Enthusiast, which I think is rather conservative. $31.95 92

2005 Sauvignon Blanc – Dog Point
It is very crisp and zippy with gooseberry, passion fruit, and a little orange note in there too. Exactly what you’d expect from a good NZ Sauv. Passion fruit dominates the palate with the excellent acidity begging for some food. I agree with the Wine Spectator rating of 91. $19.95 91

2003 ‘Cosecha’ Crianza – Condado de Haza
This tasty wine comes from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. It has a distinctly Spanish Old World character to it with a medicinal slightly cherry, sour plum, and cedar/sandalwood profile. Rugged tannins with woody chocolate accents add depth. International Wine Cellar gives it a 90, which is fair but the description makes it sound like something it’s not (at least to me). $24.95 89+

2004 Gewürztraminer Reserve – Pelee Island Winery
This Gewürz is clean with good weight, and a little mineral with rose petal and lychee nut on the nose. The lychee is more like longan (a fruit related to lychee) in taste with Turkish Delight candy. A good example of this varietal in Ontario. $14.95 89

2002 Cahors – Château de Haute-Serre
Rich nose of ripe red fruit, vanilla, chocolate and a hint of cedar. A very gulpable Malbec in an almost more New World style. approx. $18 89

2002 Saint-Emillion – Christian Moueix
Lighter in body than I was expecting, with sour cherry, plum, slight mineral, and a nice bay leaf accent. Healthy tannins and finish, but definitely not in the same style as the Cahors above. 4/5 from Wine Access. $11.45 for 375mL 88

A New World Cabernet Sauvignon Trio

Cabernet Sauvignon is without question the most popular and widely grown red grape varietal. It performs well in a wide range of circumstances and, for example, is far more forgiving than Pinot Noir in the vineyard. It also produces full bodied tannic wines that have the potential to age for years, something to note if you’re looking into starting a cellar.

The common gustatory and olfactory characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon are plum, cassis (black currant), and cedar with green nuances (like bell pepper) when grown in cooler climates. With aging a deeper bouquet may emerge (earthy, tobacco, and woody).

Despite its popularity I’ve always found unblended Cabs to be a bit too homogenous and boring for my tastes, but there are some exceptions of course. Here I cover 3 Cabs from parts of the New World known for producing nice examples: California, South Australia, and Chile.

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon – Liberty School (Paso Robles, California)
My first bottle was spoiled but after getting a new one I was pleased; very plumy, mild licorice, cherry and minty cedar with a smooth caramel feel and taste. Easy drinking, smooth with a bit of sweetness midfinish. Available as am Essential at Vintages (i.e. usually in stock). Drinking well now. $19.95 VG

2003 “Grey Label” Cabernet Sauvignon – Wolf Blass (Langhorne Creek, Australia)
Sweet Vanilla from the oak and a bit of saw dust, cherry, black currant, and eucalyptus comprise my taste impression of this wine. Not too much tannin, oak and cherry linger on the finish with a touch of spice. Well made but not my style exactly (still good though). I was expecting a little more backbone at this price range. This wine doesn’t need aging to be enjoyed – drink now until late 2007. $29.90 VG-E

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Casa Lapostolle (Rapel Valley, Chile)
This is more my style of Cab, it’s satisfying like dark chocolate. This is part of the entry level Classic line and I think it represents a good value. It has the typical cedar and plum/cassis nuances as well as some smoky cigar and cocoa/coffee notes which develop with time in the glass. The best thing about this wine is that it gets better and better in the glass, it’s even better the day after opening. Very satisfying in the mouth: full with enough complexity to keep you sipping. Like a good Cab should, it will age another 5 years easily or you can decant it a few hours before drinking. (There is 15% Carmenère mixed in – perhaps accounting for the coca note?) Should be around $16 in Canada (was bought in the US at $13). VG-E

Of the three I think it’s obvious the Lapostolle is my favourite; it has all the hallmarks of a Cab, it has aging potential, character, and it costs the least. I think the first two are catering more to the softer drink now market, which is fine because they are both good, but I think Cabernet is supposed to be tannic and require aging. Softer wines are often less complex and concentrated. Call me old fashioned but I know how I like my Cabernet Sauvignon.