Divergent Styles

It has been bemoaned many a time that wines are becoming more homogenized as the ripe and heavily oaked approach is applied across the globe to make wines that appeal to the majority of consumer demand. This may be partly true, but there are still more interpretations of wine than there is time to drink them all – you just need to look outside the widely available options. Take the following wines for example, they couldn’t be more different.

1981 Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial– Montecillo
Garnet colour hints at the age of this wine. Very elegant perfumed nose and a delicate, nuanced palate. Earthy, light leather and cedar, floral perfume with bright cherry and unripe strawberry notes. There are some burnt and unburnt cigar tobacco notes that are appealing. Very silky mouth feel. Wine Advocate scores this 91: “I was told that Montecillo's cellar master prefers the 1981 Gran Reserva Seleccion to the 1982. I cannot agree although the 1981 is also outstanding…Its stylish spicy, cherry perfume is impressively complex as are the red berry and kirsch-like flavors and there is enough structure to support another 6-8 years of first-class drinking.” Notes on Cellar Tracker read very similarly to mine overall, though my score is on the higher side. $80 94

2004 La Bastide Blanche – Earl Bronzo
This wine is from Bandol, a region in Southern France bordering the Mediterranean. Not a very well known region but one worth getting to know, especially if you’re looking for something different. The Mourvèdre (which has to make up at least half of the blend) is very evident and the Grenache component is coming through too. Lots of pepper and spice with a strong grapefruit rind aroma coming out with a few swirls. Raspberry and mineral/chalk (which I associate with Mourvèdre) coming through on the nose and palate. The finish is sweet and a little flabby. Becomes more monodimensional the more you drink. Reminds me of the 2004 Mas Amiel Vintage Charles DuPuy, but that was better. around $25 91

2002 Oracle Shiraz - Kilikanoon
This wine couldn’t be more different in style from the Montecillo above. Delicate or elegant are not terms I would use to describe this wine. Massive concentration with menthol, vanilla, dark chocolate, black cherry, coffee, and smoke. Long, impactful finish with some spice and kirsch to add complexity. Over-the-top, but I love it for what it is. Most tasters preferred this to the Montecillo, and no doubt all that near confection like concentration is hard not to like. Really, I think it’s more of a preference - the Montecillo is almost as good but just in a different way. around $80, $65 USD 95

Once in Awhile Wines

One of my favourite things about this wine affliction I’ve developed, and I’m sure I’m not alone on this, is opening that bottle I’ve been saving for a special occasion. Good company, good food, and good wine are a combination that has made for many a memorable evening. To me, great wines always seem better when they are shared. Sure you could drink that Cheval Blanc in a Styrofoam cup at a fast-food joint, but we all know that it would be even better if we shared it with someone we cared about while munching on some tasty grub.

I would never open the following wines on a regular day, not just because I can’t afford to, but because when I bought them I didn’t just think about how good they would be, I thought about the occasion.

2003 Clio – Bodegas El Nido
Right out of the bottle the nose explodes with raspberry jam, plum, spices, some cassis, cured and smoked meat, dark vanilla, and coconut cream. The coconut cream lingers a long time, evidence of the barrel treatment. The substantial oak adds sweetness to the nose and finish, but this wine has the stuffing to carry the oak without being smothered by it. With time in the glass a Port like spice note comes out and a curious freshly squeezed orange juice element. Suave and satisfying. 70% Mourvèdre with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. 96 Wine Advocate: “…creme de cassis intermixed with licorice, espresso roast, chocolate, and toasty oak. Its broad, intensely flavored, super-opulent personality offers up great fruit, plenty of glycerin, and a heady, long finish.” $57 95

2006 Amon-Ra Shiraz – Ben Glaetzer
This wine was a stunner. I decanted half the bottle and kept the rest in the bottle which turned out to be a good idea, because some of the delicate aromatics were lost after a few hours – proof that decanting doesn’t necessarily improve a wine. Very deep and engaging, a pure expression of the grape. Savoury soy sauce, Asian spices (cumin, black pepper), fruity chocolate, loads of blackberry. There is something mysterious and dark about this wine that is hard to articulate, like it’s hiding something in its depths. After 4 hours in the decanter medicinal aromas of menthol and an aroma that very strongly reminds me of a topical rub for sore muscles come out. Long finish with well structured fine tannins. 97-100 Wine Advocate: “…smoke, vanilla, pepper, Asian spices, coconut, espresso, blueberry, and chocolate. Thick, rich, layered, and complete, this monumental wine offers extraordinary intensity and length. It requires 10-15 years to fully evolve and should easily last through 2040.” $85 98

2004 Vintage Charles DuPuy – Mas Amiel
And now for something completely different. Ever heard of Maury? Unfortunately I hadn’t heard of this appellation in the region of Roussillon before this wine. It’s made from Grenache in a slightly off-dry style. Strongly reminiscent of Port but with an explosion of spices (black pepper, black tea), nuts, minerals, cured meat, grape skins, and sour cherry jam. The sweetness is balanced out by firm tannins. It becomes more like a nutty Tawny Port with time. This could stand with most Vintage Ports no problem. 93 Wine Advocate: “From Grenache planted in 1914, the 2004 Maury Vintage Charles Dupuy fills the nose and mouth with dried cherries, black raspberry preserves and cocoa, laced with vanilla, walnuts, shaved bitter chocolate, and szechuan peppercorns. This amazingly intense, penetrating, complex wine has a fine-grained tannic backbone yet vibrant forward fruit and viscous, opulent intensity, so enjoy it now or anytime over the next two decades.” $60 94

2005 Château Suduiraut
This comes from the highly touted 2005 vintage this was even better than I expected from the ratings. Amazingly penetrating nose of Sauternes smoke (botrytis), beeswax, caramel, candied pineapple, apricot and honey. Round and mouth coating with a long, long finish. Fresh acidity prevents this from being heavy or cloying. Absolutely love the nose! Not far off from the 2003 Chateau d’Yquem. Noticed some added complexity the next day with Riesling like petrol along with molasses and candied pineapple. Ratings are all over the place with this one: 92 International Wine Cellar “A powerfully fruit-driven Sauternes with superb depth, but it's almost too rich today”, 95-100 Wine Spectator prerelease “Better than 2003”, 93 Wine Spectator after release “…dried pineapple, honey, pear, caramel…”, 96 from Wine and Spirits, 18+/20 Jancis Robinson. $55 for 375mL 96

2008 Gourmet Food and Wine Expo

Yet another year at the Expo. Overall I found the wines less exciting than previous years, but there were still some gems. I scored all of these before finding out what the critics’ ratings were, so you can see how my notes and ratings compare.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Clos Pegase
The alcohol came through in the nose along with the barrel toast (vanilla and charred wood). Very ripe plum, cured meat, chocolate, fruity finish, but the heat and dusty wood overwhelm at this point in time. Not as plush as I was hoping. 92 from Wine Enthusiast: ripe currant, cassis, chocolate and licorice flavors, luscious. $50.95 89

2004 Château Le Carillon
At fist whiff there is a dirty diaper like odour that dissipates with some swirling (really not as off-putting as it sounds, honest). Strawberry and cherry, dark stewed fruits, bay leaf, and mineral. Elegant and not too heavy or overdone. 92 from Toronto Life: ripe cherry, plum, leather, mocha, and anise; sweet, elegant and poised, with excellent length. $ 39.95 90

2003 Print Shiraz – Mitchelton
This wine was a nice surprise! The staff who were pouring this one had to convince me to try it, and I wasn’t expecting much as I’d never heard of it before. Rich black fruit laden nose (mulberry, blackberry) with a distinct salty savoury character that reminds me of the 2004 Astralis I had a while back (but this is a fraction of the cost). I find this salty savoury character in a lot of my favourite top end Shirazes, here it reminds me of soy sauce and a sea breeze. Very grippy finish – this will age well. Unbeknownst to me at the time Wine Spectator scored it at the same 92 points. I bought one to cellar for 5 years or so. $44.75 92

2004 Barolo Lazzarito – Vietti
Aromas of faint dried roses, red wine gums, anise, toasted bread. The typical Barolo tar note is here but it seems like a thin, weaker version. Lean and still needs some time, but not something I’ll be adding to the cellar (especially at this price). 93 Wine Advocate: dark fruit, smoke, licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak. 95 International Wine Cellar: minerals, brown spices, Cuban tobacco and menthol. I agree more with the Wine Advocate notes, but not the score based on sample I had. $120 89

2004 Château Climens
This has a nice waxy nose with caramel popcorn, honey, citrus and the mouthfeel is rich and thick with good weight and balance. Good Barsac for sure. 92 from Wine Spectator: “…apricot tart, with hints of candied lemons on the nose. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with lovely concentration and a lemony, spicy, almost flinty aftertaste. Impressive for the vintage.” $129 (750mL) 93

2004 Alion
Alion was started by the legendary Vega Sicilia in Ribera del Duero in 1991. This was more New World than I was expecting with evident oak and the Tempranillo character I like so much was not at the forefront, but will probably become more evident with age. Sweet ripe cherry, cassis, faint cedar and tobacco, and a light floral element lingering in the aftertaste. 96 Wine Advocate. $80.95 91+

2005 Croix de Beaucaillou
This is the second wine of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, and not a bad one at that. Light and lifted aromas of strawberry cheesecake, raspberry, and light herbs. The wine is pleasantly soft around the edges and finish. It is accessible now and should drink well in the short term. Looks like agree with Robert Parker on this, he scores it 91 as well. $57.95 91

1979 Crême de Tête – Château Gilette
It’s not often that I get to try a Sauternes that is this old, let alone aged in concrete vats. After shelling out $22 for a 1oz sample I was intrigued by what I sipped, but ultimately this is something I would not buy even if it was cheaper. Rich caramel, citrus peel, some smoke. Turns a little sour and oxidized tasting on the finish. There is a definite mineral aspect to it but not the normal vinous kind, more like water that has been stored in a clay vase. Considering how long it is stored in those concrete vats I’m sure it’s more than just suggestion that it smells and tastes of clay pot. Light amber in colour and faint floral and beeswax notes. I think I prefer my Sauternes oak aged. $195 (500ml) 90

1996 Château Calon-Ségur
This came across very green and smoky – I’m having flashbacks of Niagara. Raw bell pepper, cassis and spices, and savoury herbs. A bit lean and tannic. The finish is not that long. The oak is still strong and the amount of astringency this still has suggests that this can still age another 5-8 years. 92 from Wine Access: “The 1996 may not be as profound as I had predicted from cask, but it is an exceptional wine. Dark ruby-colored, with a complex nose of dried herbs, Asian spices, and black cherry jam intermixed with cassis, it possesses outstanding purity, and considerable tannin in the finish. This classic, medium to full-bodied, traditionally made wine improves dramatically with airing, suggesting it will have a very long life”. $167 90

Tasting - Any Fine Wine

There was no particular theme to this tasting, just whatever we had kicking around. Some of the wines were tasted blind for fun and there were some odd wines thrown in the mix too. It turned out to be somewhat educational and a little test of our tasting skills.

Also interesting to note is how some wines that you’ve previously enjoyed by themselves can wilt when compared to other wines in a tasting (e.g. you realize how green a wine is in comparison to riper ones).

NV Brut – Piper Heidsieck
Citrus notes of lemon and lime candy, nutty cashew, leesy/toasty bouquet, slight grassy note. I’m not a connoisseur of Champagne but I was pleased with the weight and length of the finish as well as the fine bubbles. Lacks the carbonated/sulfite sharpness that sometimes affects lesser Champagnes. Reasonable price for this quality of bubbly makes it a nice standby. Rated 90 Toronto Life online: cookie, lemon custard, toast, good length. $55.20 90-91

1999 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Caymus
After other vintages flopped in previous tastings we were determined to find one that would show well. Considering that this vintage scored 93 and 92 points from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator respectively we thought things should play out differently this time. The barrel toasting turned off some tasters again, especially as it became more evident with air, but I think it was a touch better than the 2003. Lots of cassis and some green pepper, still has well defined fruit despite bottle aging, cigar box, and some savoury thyme/tarragon notes. Velvety and rich but lacking some complexity. $55+ USD (the 2005 is $80 at the LCBO) 91

2004 Finca Altamira Malbec – Achaval Ferrer
This wine was tasted blind and when I assigned the rating I had no idea that it had scored 95 and 98 points from Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate respectively. After assessing the wine I was sure it was a Malbec (the characteristics were so overt), but my score was low because I though the wine was a little overdone and awkward. Usually my scores are a little closer to the critics, but not in this case. Overtly fruity: salty sour preserved plum (a Malbec indicator for me), cherry, almost tutti-frutti, and blueberry pie. Very expressive aromatically almost perfumed. A little leather and straw. Obviously malo’ed with silky milk chocolate character. Love the powerful nose (one of the best things about Malbec I think) but the experience in the mouth was too fruity and cumbersome for me. $90-115 USD from online search 89-90

2005 Explorateur Barossa Valley Shiraz – The Colonial Estate
Loads of fruit, jammy, full of black olive and iodine which make the varietal hard to miss. Sweet coffee notes. Super ripe, and to me bordering on alcoholic pop, but pleasant enough if you enjoy the style. The fault for me is the lack of tannins which fail to balance the ripeness, they are too soft. 90 in Wine Spectator. 95 Wine Advocate: blockbuster, white pepper, licorice, graphite, finesse and elegance (I really don’t know where Parker got elegance from, maybe he’s had to many over the top wines). $28.80 91

2004 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Chablis – La Chablisienne
Very nutty! Overt hazelnut in nose and palate, clean mineral with light citrus. 90 from Wine Spectator, but no mention of the hazelnut in the review: “taut and steely…lemon and mineral flavours”. Interesting. $24.95 89

2006 Petalos – Descendientes de J. Palacios
This one was a wild card that we tasted blind. Didn’t have a clue as to what it was. This wine comes from a region that none of us were familiar with, Bierzo. Tutti-frutti, cherry pie, spice (white pepper), grippy phenolic smell, pencil lead, weird! 91 International Wine Cellar: cherry, minerality, rose, “this smells like a great Chambolle-Musigny” (what? maybe bad Chambolle-Musigny), raspberry, brisk acidity. $23.75 87

1998 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon – Penfolds
Strong menthol, red fruit, muted barrel toast, cassis, bitter tannins on the finish, tobacco. Almost like menthol cigarette. Interesting for the strong mint character, but a bit monodimensional. Not surprisingly, several others note mint/menthol on Cellar Tracker. 90 from Wine Advocate on release. Thoroughly overpriced, had no idea it was this expensive when I tasted it. $140-200 (depending where you get it) 90

2006 Year End Wines

Over the 2006 Christmas season I had a few nice wines which I’ll share in this post. Nothing too over the top here, just tasty decently priced wines.

2004 'Bushvine' Grenache – Yalumba
At first I get lovely aromas of strawberry and a little raspberry with some spicy elements of vanilla bean and cloves. Nice firm tannins and a long finish with a touch of chocolate. After some time in the glass the spicy accents come out more, as well as some gamey/bacon hints. 91 from Wine Spectator. A sturdy wine for hearty meals. $19.95 90

2005 Pinot Gris – Grove Mill
This was a little riper than I would have liked, but still quite expressive. Some pear/melon that you might expect, but tropical aromas of passion fruit and ripe peach dominate the nose. There is a little spice and acid to balance it somewhat. Some people enjoyed this, but it wasn’t my preference. $19.95 87

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - Raymond
Very well executed; great balance! Very ripe plum and black cherries, caramel and a hint of pepper from the barrel toasting. It reminds me of Black Forest cake. Very fine polished tannins add to the gulpability of this wine. It could stand up to Cabs that are more expensive; I would go as far as to say the 2003 Ornellaia which retails at $139.95 isn’t that much better. It was rated 90 by Wine Enthusiast, which I think is rather conservative. $31.95 92

2005 Sauvignon Blanc – Dog Point
It is very crisp and zippy with gooseberry, passion fruit, and a little orange note in there too. Exactly what you’d expect from a good NZ Sauv. Passion fruit dominates the palate with the excellent acidity begging for some food. I agree with the Wine Spectator rating of 91. $19.95 91

2003 ‘Cosecha’ Crianza – Condado de Haza
This tasty wine comes from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain. It has a distinctly Spanish Old World character to it with a medicinal slightly cherry, sour plum, and cedar/sandalwood profile. Rugged tannins with woody chocolate accents add depth. International Wine Cellar gives it a 90, which is fair but the description makes it sound like something it’s not (at least to me). $24.95 89+

2004 Gewürztraminer Reserve – Pelee Island Winery
This Gewürz is clean with good weight, and a little mineral with rose petal and lychee nut on the nose. The lychee is more like longan (a fruit related to lychee) in taste with Turkish Delight candy. A good example of this varietal in Ontario. $14.95 89

2002 Cahors – Château de Haute-Serre
Rich nose of ripe red fruit, vanilla, chocolate and a hint of cedar. A very gulpable Malbec in an almost more New World style. approx. $18 89

2002 Saint-Emillion – Christian Moueix
Lighter in body than I was expecting, with sour cherry, plum, slight mineral, and a nice bay leaf accent. Healthy tannins and finish, but definitely not in the same style as the Cahors above. 4/5 from Wine Access. $11.45 for 375mL 88

Bargain Reds 1st Edition

For the 1st installment I have a few random reds I’ve had in the last while that have impressed me with their quality and value.

The first two are great examples from Spain. There are some amazingly priced tempranillo based wines from Spain to be found if you care to look.

1997 “Los Molinos” Gran Reserva – Felix Solis
Cherry, cedar, and leather with a spicy plum finish and a nice minty accent. There are some vanilla hints left from the oak. All in all quite pleasant and it has held up nicely under aging, but not for much longer, drink it right away. It’s rare you get such a well matured wine for this price. 90 in The Toronto Star. $13.95. VG-E

2001 ‘Crianza’ Tempranillo – Vina Izadi
The ‘crianza’ refers to the aging, at least 2 years by DO regulations. Red fruit (cherry, raspberry, cranberry) against a lightly toasted oak background. There is a distinct rosewood accent that reminds me of my grandparent’s cloths chest! Smoked ham and mint develop in the glass. The finish is pleasantly astringent. This is a good example of why I like Rioja tempranillo so much. $17.95. VG-E

This is a wine to look out for if you like bold wines:

2005 “The Stump Jump” Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre (GSM) – D’Arenberg
The aromas of all three varietals are pleasantly mingled: spicy raspberry with a clean limestone undertone. The palate is spicy and robustly fruity; a wallop of plum skin and raspberry with some mineral and mint towards the end. A nice long finish. Not a subtle wine by any means, but amazing concentration of flavour for the $13.95. VG-E

If you are in to odd ball varietals:

2004 Reserve Carmenère – Cremaschi Furlotti
Once common in Bordeaux you rarely see this varietal unblended, except sometimes in Chile where this wine is from. I’ve heard this grape produces crappy wines by itself but this wine was quite interesting, it had a little of everything. I noted coca, sour cherry, sandalwood, prune, and fig. There is ample French oak which seems lightly toasted. It is bright and ripe with some residual sugar, but enough acid to compensate. Strange but good. Maybe just a touch too ripe for some people. $12.95. VG

There may be a bit of a break before my next posting, but I will post as soon as I can.

Vintages - May 27, 2006 Release

This release featured wines from New Zealand. Of course there were the obligatory Sauvignon Blancs, of which there were quite a few good ones, and Pinot Noirs which are rightfully starting to get as much notice as Sauvignon Blanc. For me the price to quality ratio made me reluctant to indulge in any of the Pinot Noir, but I did seems to gather from The Star (as I’m sure many others have) and other sources that the 2004 Wither Hills Pinot Noir was a top pick (93 from Stimmell) – at $45.95 is not bad value, but for me a lower priority on a limited budget. Instead my hard earned bucks went to the 2005 Drylands Sauvignon Blanc (which I reviewed in the previous post E-VG for $18.95) and 2005 Seresin Sauvignon Blanc.

I also picked out a few good values from the release which I will review now:

2004 ‘Dogajolo’ – Carpineto
Well this is actually more a word of caution than a review. This Tuscan seemed like an amazing value at $19.95 and 5/5 Stars from The Sydney Morning Herald so I got 2 bottles. Unfortunately both were spoiled smelling like fermenting beans and cork. Considering I bought them randomly from two different stores this does not seem like very good odds. I’m sure it would be great if not corked to hell, but there seems like a good chance that spoiled bottles are far from uncommon. No Rating

2003 ‘Lizard Flat’ Shiraz – Heath Wines
I was thinking of getting the Cab-Merlot but after talking to the staff at the LCBO who had tried both I decided on the Shiraz. I’m glad I did. Bottled under a screwcap (I haven’t had a spoiled screwcap wine yet) this wine delivers great value for the money. New oak lends some vanilla notes with plum, black fruit, and interesting spice nuances (fennel and black pepper) with a lengthy finish. $11.95 VG

I will be adding reviews for the 2005 Seresin Sauvignon Blanc and the Spanish red 2003 ‘Altos de Luzon’ to this post once I get to drinking them, soon I hope.

Alright here they are:

2005 Sauvignon Blanc – Seresin
This wine from Marlborough is good in its own right but not what I typically expect from a NZ Sauvignon Blanc, which is why I prefer the Drylands. I’m not noticing much passion fruit or any other tropical fruit (though some might disagree); instead I notice more temperate fruits like pear and Golden Delicious apple. There is also a tinge of oak (10% barrel fermented) which smoothes out some of the zing I like but does give it a nice mouthfeel. Also unusual is the addition of 3% Semillion. What is typical is the healthy dollop of gooseberry character. The zip does increase with exposure to air as the oak component mellows. $19.95 E-VG

2003 ‘Altos de Luzón’ – Bodegas Luzón
This ripe and rich wine comes from the Jumilla region of Spain. I noticed vanilla (from the oak) in its bouquet and aromas of ripe cherry and blackberry with definite cedar and tobacco all melded together nicely. Ample and firm tannins suggest this wine will age well for a few years, but it’s great now. Maybe some faint almond and mint in there too. Definitely some Old World wine character in it, great! 93 from Wine Spectator $22.95 E-VG