Divergent Styles

It has been bemoaned many a time that wines are becoming more homogenized as the ripe and heavily oaked approach is applied across the globe to make wines that appeal to the majority of consumer demand. This may be partly true, but there are still more interpretations of wine than there is time to drink them all – you just need to look outside the widely available options. Take the following wines for example, they couldn’t be more different.

1981 Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial– Montecillo
Garnet colour hints at the age of this wine. Very elegant perfumed nose and a delicate, nuanced palate. Earthy, light leather and cedar, floral perfume with bright cherry and unripe strawberry notes. There are some burnt and unburnt cigar tobacco notes that are appealing. Very silky mouth feel. Wine Advocate scores this 91: “I was told that Montecillo's cellar master prefers the 1981 Gran Reserva Seleccion to the 1982. I cannot agree although the 1981 is also outstanding…Its stylish spicy, cherry perfume is impressively complex as are the red berry and kirsch-like flavors and there is enough structure to support another 6-8 years of first-class drinking.” Notes on Cellar Tracker read very similarly to mine overall, though my score is on the higher side. $80 94

2004 La Bastide Blanche – Earl Bronzo
This wine is from Bandol, a region in Southern France bordering the Mediterranean. Not a very well known region but one worth getting to know, especially if you’re looking for something different. The Mourvèdre (which has to make up at least half of the blend) is very evident and the Grenache component is coming through too. Lots of pepper and spice with a strong grapefruit rind aroma coming out with a few swirls. Raspberry and mineral/chalk (which I associate with Mourvèdre) coming through on the nose and palate. The finish is sweet and a little flabby. Becomes more monodimensional the more you drink. Reminds me of the 2004 Mas Amiel Vintage Charles DuPuy, but that was better. around $25 91

2002 Oracle Shiraz - Kilikanoon
This wine couldn’t be more different in style from the Montecillo above. Delicate or elegant are not terms I would use to describe this wine. Massive concentration with menthol, vanilla, dark chocolate, black cherry, coffee, and smoke. Long, impactful finish with some spice and kirsch to add complexity. Over-the-top, but I love it for what it is. Most tasters preferred this to the Montecillo, and no doubt all that near confection like concentration is hard not to like. Really, I think it’s more of a preference - the Montecillo is almost as good but just in a different way. around $80, $65 USD 95