Divergent Styles

It has been bemoaned many a time that wines are becoming more homogenized as the ripe and heavily oaked approach is applied across the globe to make wines that appeal to the majority of consumer demand. This may be partly true, but there are still more interpretations of wine than there is time to drink them all – you just need to look outside the widely available options. Take the following wines for example, they couldn’t be more different.

1981 Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial– Montecillo
Garnet colour hints at the age of this wine. Very elegant perfumed nose and a delicate, nuanced palate. Earthy, light leather and cedar, floral perfume with bright cherry and unripe strawberry notes. There are some burnt and unburnt cigar tobacco notes that are appealing. Very silky mouth feel. Wine Advocate scores this 91: “I was told that Montecillo's cellar master prefers the 1981 Gran Reserva Seleccion to the 1982. I cannot agree although the 1981 is also outstanding…Its stylish spicy, cherry perfume is impressively complex as are the red berry and kirsch-like flavors and there is enough structure to support another 6-8 years of first-class drinking.” Notes on Cellar Tracker read very similarly to mine overall, though my score is on the higher side. $80 94

2004 La Bastide Blanche – Earl Bronzo
This wine is from Bandol, a region in Southern France bordering the Mediterranean. Not a very well known region but one worth getting to know, especially if you’re looking for something different. The Mourvèdre (which has to make up at least half of the blend) is very evident and the Grenache component is coming through too. Lots of pepper and spice with a strong grapefruit rind aroma coming out with a few swirls. Raspberry and mineral/chalk (which I associate with Mourvèdre) coming through on the nose and palate. The finish is sweet and a little flabby. Becomes more monodimensional the more you drink. Reminds me of the 2004 Mas Amiel Vintage Charles DuPuy, but that was better. around $25 91

2002 Oracle Shiraz - Kilikanoon
This wine couldn’t be more different in style from the Montecillo above. Delicate or elegant are not terms I would use to describe this wine. Massive concentration with menthol, vanilla, dark chocolate, black cherry, coffee, and smoke. Long, impactful finish with some spice and kirsch to add complexity. Over-the-top, but I love it for what it is. Most tasters preferred this to the Montecillo, and no doubt all that near confection like concentration is hard not to like. Really, I think it’s more of a preference - the Montecillo is almost as good but just in a different way. around $80, $65 USD 95

Once in Awhile Wines

One of my favourite things about this wine affliction I’ve developed, and I’m sure I’m not alone on this, is opening that bottle I’ve been saving for a special occasion. Good company, good food, and good wine are a combination that has made for many a memorable evening. To me, great wines always seem better when they are shared. Sure you could drink that Cheval Blanc in a Styrofoam cup at a fast-food joint, but we all know that it would be even better if we shared it with someone we cared about while munching on some tasty grub.

I would never open the following wines on a regular day, not just because I can’t afford to, but because when I bought them I didn’t just think about how good they would be, I thought about the occasion.

2003 Clio – Bodegas El Nido
Right out of the bottle the nose explodes with raspberry jam, plum, spices, some cassis, cured and smoked meat, dark vanilla, and coconut cream. The coconut cream lingers a long time, evidence of the barrel treatment. The substantial oak adds sweetness to the nose and finish, but this wine has the stuffing to carry the oak without being smothered by it. With time in the glass a Port like spice note comes out and a curious freshly squeezed orange juice element. Suave and satisfying. 70% Mourvèdre with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. 96 Wine Advocate: “…creme de cassis intermixed with licorice, espresso roast, chocolate, and toasty oak. Its broad, intensely flavored, super-opulent personality offers up great fruit, plenty of glycerin, and a heady, long finish.” $57 95

2006 Amon-Ra Shiraz – Ben Glaetzer
This wine was a stunner. I decanted half the bottle and kept the rest in the bottle which turned out to be a good idea, because some of the delicate aromatics were lost after a few hours – proof that decanting doesn’t necessarily improve a wine. Very deep and engaging, a pure expression of the grape. Savoury soy sauce, Asian spices (cumin, black pepper), fruity chocolate, loads of blackberry. There is something mysterious and dark about this wine that is hard to articulate, like it’s hiding something in its depths. After 4 hours in the decanter medicinal aromas of menthol and an aroma that very strongly reminds me of a topical rub for sore muscles come out. Long finish with well structured fine tannins. 97-100 Wine Advocate: “…smoke, vanilla, pepper, Asian spices, coconut, espresso, blueberry, and chocolate. Thick, rich, layered, and complete, this monumental wine offers extraordinary intensity and length. It requires 10-15 years to fully evolve and should easily last through 2040.” $85 98

2004 Vintage Charles DuPuy – Mas Amiel
And now for something completely different. Ever heard of Maury? Unfortunately I hadn’t heard of this appellation in the region of Roussillon before this wine. It’s made from Grenache in a slightly off-dry style. Strongly reminiscent of Port but with an explosion of spices (black pepper, black tea), nuts, minerals, cured meat, grape skins, and sour cherry jam. The sweetness is balanced out by firm tannins. It becomes more like a nutty Tawny Port with time. This could stand with most Vintage Ports no problem. 93 Wine Advocate: “From Grenache planted in 1914, the 2004 Maury Vintage Charles Dupuy fills the nose and mouth with dried cherries, black raspberry preserves and cocoa, laced with vanilla, walnuts, shaved bitter chocolate, and szechuan peppercorns. This amazingly intense, penetrating, complex wine has a fine-grained tannic backbone yet vibrant forward fruit and viscous, opulent intensity, so enjoy it now or anytime over the next two decades.” $60 94

2005 Château Suduiraut
This comes from the highly touted 2005 vintage this was even better than I expected from the ratings. Amazingly penetrating nose of Sauternes smoke (botrytis), beeswax, caramel, candied pineapple, apricot and honey. Round and mouth coating with a long, long finish. Fresh acidity prevents this from being heavy or cloying. Absolutely love the nose! Not far off from the 2003 Chateau d’Yquem. Noticed some added complexity the next day with Riesling like petrol along with molasses and candied pineapple. Ratings are all over the place with this one: 92 International Wine Cellar “A powerfully fruit-driven Sauternes with superb depth, but it's almost too rich today”, 95-100 Wine Spectator prerelease “Better than 2003”, 93 Wine Spectator after release “…dried pineapple, honey, pear, caramel…”, 96 from Wine and Spirits, 18+/20 Jancis Robinson. $55 for 375mL 96

Tasting - Any Fine Wine

There was no particular theme to this tasting, just whatever we had kicking around. Some of the wines were tasted blind for fun and there were some odd wines thrown in the mix too. It turned out to be somewhat educational and a little test of our tasting skills.

Also interesting to note is how some wines that you’ve previously enjoyed by themselves can wilt when compared to other wines in a tasting (e.g. you realize how green a wine is in comparison to riper ones).

NV Brut – Piper Heidsieck
Citrus notes of lemon and lime candy, nutty cashew, leesy/toasty bouquet, slight grassy note. I’m not a connoisseur of Champagne but I was pleased with the weight and length of the finish as well as the fine bubbles. Lacks the carbonated/sulfite sharpness that sometimes affects lesser Champagnes. Reasonable price for this quality of bubbly makes it a nice standby. Rated 90 Toronto Life online: cookie, lemon custard, toast, good length. $55.20 90-91

1999 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Caymus
After other vintages flopped in previous tastings we were determined to find one that would show well. Considering that this vintage scored 93 and 92 points from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator respectively we thought things should play out differently this time. The barrel toasting turned off some tasters again, especially as it became more evident with air, but I think it was a touch better than the 2003. Lots of cassis and some green pepper, still has well defined fruit despite bottle aging, cigar box, and some savoury thyme/tarragon notes. Velvety and rich but lacking some complexity. $55+ USD (the 2005 is $80 at the LCBO) 91

2004 Finca Altamira Malbec – Achaval Ferrer
This wine was tasted blind and when I assigned the rating I had no idea that it had scored 95 and 98 points from Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate respectively. After assessing the wine I was sure it was a Malbec (the characteristics were so overt), but my score was low because I though the wine was a little overdone and awkward. Usually my scores are a little closer to the critics, but not in this case. Overtly fruity: salty sour preserved plum (a Malbec indicator for me), cherry, almost tutti-frutti, and blueberry pie. Very expressive aromatically almost perfumed. A little leather and straw. Obviously malo’ed with silky milk chocolate character. Love the powerful nose (one of the best things about Malbec I think) but the experience in the mouth was too fruity and cumbersome for me. $90-115 USD from online search 89-90

2005 Explorateur Barossa Valley Shiraz – The Colonial Estate
Loads of fruit, jammy, full of black olive and iodine which make the varietal hard to miss. Sweet coffee notes. Super ripe, and to me bordering on alcoholic pop, but pleasant enough if you enjoy the style. The fault for me is the lack of tannins which fail to balance the ripeness, they are too soft. 90 in Wine Spectator. 95 Wine Advocate: blockbuster, white pepper, licorice, graphite, finesse and elegance (I really don’t know where Parker got elegance from, maybe he’s had to many over the top wines). $28.80 91

2004 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Chablis – La Chablisienne
Very nutty! Overt hazelnut in nose and palate, clean mineral with light citrus. 90 from Wine Spectator, but no mention of the hazelnut in the review: “taut and steely…lemon and mineral flavours”. Interesting. $24.95 89

2006 Petalos – Descendientes de J. Palacios
This one was a wild card that we tasted blind. Didn’t have a clue as to what it was. This wine comes from a region that none of us were familiar with, Bierzo. Tutti-frutti, cherry pie, spice (white pepper), grippy phenolic smell, pencil lead, weird! 91 International Wine Cellar: cherry, minerality, rose, “this smells like a great Chambolle-Musigny” (what? maybe bad Chambolle-Musigny), raspberry, brisk acidity. $23.75 87

1998 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon – Penfolds
Strong menthol, red fruit, muted barrel toast, cassis, bitter tannins on the finish, tobacco. Almost like menthol cigarette. Interesting for the strong mint character, but a bit monodimensional. Not surprisingly, several others note mint/menthol on Cellar Tracker. 90 from Wine Advocate on release. Thoroughly overpriced, had no idea it was this expensive when I tasted it. $140-200 (depending where you get it) 90

2007 Gourmet Food & Wine Expo

As usual the Vines Fine Wine Tasting Lounge and the Vintages booth were the really the only place to find the most coveted wines, the other exhibitors were only pouring entry level plonk. I did try some nice wines at the Germany booth, but the real draw for me was the high end stuff I would almost never buy a whole bottle of.

2003 La Chapelle Hermitage – Paul Jaboulet
Ridiculously tight at the moment, but with some vigorous swirling the nose opened up revealing ripe black, slightly raisiny fruit. I got notes of ripe plum, faint caramel, savoury black olive (typical of most big Syrah for me), cedar, burnt underbrush, maybe a bit ferric/bloody. Spicy finish, like Grains of Paradise (floral and peppery). It was very closed and tannic on the palate, but shows great potential to age. I’d give it 5 years at least. Wine Spectator 96: blackberry, boysenberry, black currant, mocha, mineral and tar. International Wine Cellar 91-95: blackberry, blueberry, licorice and camphor, along with a suggestion of exotic spices. Wine Access 95: creme de cassis, crushed flowers, truffles, and licorice. $159 94+

2003 Château d’Yquem
Wow! This was the wine of the show for me. It had been open for a day but showed no sign of fading, if anything it probably helped open it up. The nose explodes with seductively smoky beeswax, guava paste, coconut, apricot – it smells rich and fat if that’s possible. So unctuous, it coats your mouth and then infuses it with its essence. The finish goes on and on. Like a caramel candy in the aftertaste, but much better. Little citrus rind and a subtle greenness in there too Wine Spectator 98: lemon rind, vanilla cream and dried pineapple. Wine Access 94-96. $250 for 375 mL 97

2002 E&E Black Pepper Shiraz – Barossa Valley Estate
This has some fruity and medicinal elements that I enjoy: iodine, blackberry and plum. Loads of black pepper, just as the name suggests, with some black olive, floral (violets), cedar, and blueberry. Great acid, demands some hearty food to go with it. Barrel toast is evident and the pepper is a bit aggressive. This is more floral than La Chapelle, but overall it doesn’t have the same structure and balance. I think the 97 Wine Spectator rating is overly generous, especially when comparing this to La Chapelle. 90 from Wine Enthusiast. $ 99.95 92+

2003 Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland - Balthasar Ress
From a vineyard near Rüdesheimer mountain in the Rheingau this late harvest wine has great balancing acidity and distinct mineral/slate elements. Mild almond, custard, green apple, and white peach with a refreshing finish. This won gold at a competition I can’t remember (Ottawa?). $26.95 91

2003 Keyneton Estate The Euphonium – Henschke
This was initially good at first sip but for some reason became less impressive the more we drank. Lots of spicy toasty oak, cassis, black and red fruit, and thyme. The balance is nice but the finish is average. International Wine Cellar 91: fruitcake, molasses, anise and dark chocolate, smoky, musky tobacco and cured meat notes, sweet blackberry and blackcurrant flavours. I can’t say I noted most of those elements in my tasting other than the blackcurrant, sounds like he had a richer wine. $51.95 90

2004 Clos Apalta – Casa Lapostolle
This was a bit of a disappointment for me because I have wanted to try this wine for a while and expected a little more for the price and reputation. Tobacco, refined spices (cloves, cinnamon, pepper), sweet fruit (black cherry and strawberry), vanilla, and a hint of sage. Not easy to put my finger on, but it did remind me of Carmenere I’ve had before (especially that sweet fruit and tobacco aspect). 86% Carmenere with the rest being Merlot. 91 Wine Acess: pain grille, spice box, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. $96 90

1999 Brute Rosé Champagne – Pol Roger
I’m far from being an expert when it comes to champagne but I was not fond of this at all. Lemon zest, cranberry and an unpleasant sharp sulfite smell which I’m told is the style. I don’t think the small tasting portion helped either because I find I need a larger portion to evaluate sparkling wines as the carbon dioxide tends to mute the nose. Either way I thought it was poor value. 90 Wine Spectator: candied berry and lemon meringue. $88.95 85

2007 Toronto Wine and Cheese Show

What drew me to this show was the chance to taste great wines that I wouldn’t get the chance to taste anywhere else for a reasonable price. Although I tried a few other more moderately priced wines I only took notes on the biggest and the best as this was my primary focus. These wines were not always from the most raved about vintages (often years before or after a blockbuster vintage), but they still gave me a taste of what the top wines in the world can offer. All of these wines were poured at the Classics premium tasting area.
Note: the ‘+’ after my rating denotes that the wine could score higher with some time to age.



2001 Château Latour
Anyone who has taken a serious interest in the wines of Bordeaux, or wine in general, will know this name’s repute instantly. 2001 didn’t get the acclaim of the 2000 vintage, but it is also priced less ridiculously as a result. I think this wine definitely has many more years ahead of it to fully develop, but it is somewhat accessible now. I get whiffs of charred oak, mulberry (some might say cassis), and surprisingly some light sour cherry – but still more on the black fruit side of the spectrum. There is a certain roundness to the character and though the tannins are very fine they still have good grip. There is a light floral element – lilac? Perhaps some mineral and black tea elements in there as well. Very long finish with plum fruit lingering. Rated 95 by both Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate; 92 from International Wine Cellar. $330 94+




1995 Château Lynch-Bages
Though it’s rated as a fifth growth this has very little to do with its quality. The colour is a nice burgundy at the rim which shows its age as do the aromas of light earthy smoke and tobacco (slightly green), with a little fruity plum and cassis at first. There are also some faint meaty elements adding to the character. Light spicy plum on the finish. It was a completely different experience than the Latour (as I expected from the age and producer). 91 Wine Advocate – my notes are similar to Parker’s which is usually not the case (he seems to pick out completely different things than I do). Drink now or over the next 5 years. $175 91


2004 Astralis – Clarendon Hills
This wine blew me away; it was like nothing I’ve tried before. At first I got a pleasantly odd concentrated black olive-like fruitiness with some very nice minty/eucalyptus-like notes joining the chorus of soft vanillins (from the oak) and ripe black fruit. This is going to sound strange but there is definitely some soy sauce in the nose (I kept thinking of Asian food until I was able to put my finger on it)! Nicely spiced plum pudding towards the end. Even some roasted meat (very little). A little softer on the finish than I was expecting, which is the only thing I wasn’t too fond of, but it is so silky smooth. I’d give it another 5-10 years, but it’s quite drinkable now. Robert Parker thinks this will go over 30 years, but when it’s this good why wait that long? He gives it 96-98, once again we agree (but his notes read a little different than mine). $390 97


1999 Château D’Yquem
Being the only Château in Sauternes to garner the Premier Cru Supérieur classification this wine comes with a huge reputation. I am a budding Sauternes enthusiast so the opportunity to try the greatest of them all (even in a mediocre year) was quite a treat. Very waxy with honey and beeswax and light floral elements taking the fore and a little botrytis spice in the background, not bad, but not the complexity I was hoping for. The experience in the mouth was amazing though; rich and unctuous but light and smooth as smoke, with some suggestions of smoke in the taste profile as well. Lingering apricot and honey finish. Quite a pleasant encounter. Wine Spectator gives it a 95. $175 (for 375mL) 94



2003 Ermitage l’Ermite – M. Chapoutier
The hue is an amazing royal purple. It has a black olive note similar to the Astralis, but with more meatiness and a slightly iodine/medicinal tinge. It also has more grip with slight cherry, dark fruit, light vanilla – very pure expression, well delineated flavours. I don’t know if it’s the perfection that Parker is referring to but it is really nice. With such structure I’d like to try this wine in another 10 years. 100 from Wine Advocate. $199 95+

2006 Gourmet Food & Wine Expo

My main reason for attending the expo was to try wines that I wouldn’t usually be able to taste or afford. There are also cooking seminars and all kinds of food, but the main draw for me has got to be the wine. Overall I was quite satisfied with the expo; my only gripe was that some of the tastings were overpriced (e.g. $8 to get a 2 oz. tasting of a wine costing $60, with around 12 two ounce servings in a bottle that works out to $96 each). In most cases they were making a mint on tastings, which I think defeats the spirit of the whole thing.

Note: Due to some confusion over my old rating system I am switching over to the more intuitive 50-100 point scale starting with this posting. My rating will always follow the price.

The Vintages booth:
Most of the fine wines I wanted to try were here so I basically camped out there for a good hour or two and chatted with the friendly and knowledgeable staff.

1999 ‘Riserva gli Angeli’ Brunello Di Montalcino – La Gerla
Earth and truffle hints and lovely ripe red fruits (strawberry and raspberry) please the senses. It has good grip and weight while remaining carefully poised with pomegranate on the long finish. The fine acidity demands a pairing with some hearty Italian fair. 94 from Wine Spectator. $89 92

2000 Barolo ‘Vigna Dei Pola’ – Ascheri
Dried flowers and faint vanilla with light loam. More of a modern style. Decent but not as concentrated as I’d like for a Barolo. $39.95 88

2003 ‘La Grand Vin’ – Osoyoos Larose
This is the third vintage of this premium meritage from British Colombia. There is quite a bit of new oak (with a light toast), slightly herbaceous (dill), smoked meat, good extract. Good but not what I typically go for (a lot of other people were quite impressed with this wine). $40 90

2001 ‘Badia a Passignano’ Chianti Classico Riserva – Antinori
Vanilla, a little pepper, good acid and red fruit. I rushed past this wine to try others so my observations are not in depth. Good but not outstanding though it got a 92 from Wine Advocate. $39.95 89

2003 Crozes-Hermitage – E.Guigal
There is a raisiny sweetness and blueberry/cassis at the top with some whiffs of barnyard underneath (maybe what Parker refers to as tapenade). Nice mouthfeel and finish. Could age much longer, but it’s drinking well now. 91-94 Wine Advocate. 90-92 International Wine Cellar. Decent value. $25.95 91

2003 Ornellaia - Tenuta dell’Ornellaia
I’ve never had the chance to try this famous Super Tuscan before so I was quite excited. Smooth and damn complex! Well integrated oak (vanilla notes) with a coffee and toffee like sweetness. Great mouthfeel and length. There is a green tea like hint in there too. Is it worth the price? Not quite for me. 92 Wine Spectator; 94 from Gordon Stimmel of The Star. $139.95 94


2000 ‘Mazzano’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico- Masi
I thought some of the other wines were pretty great but this wine stands out to me as one of the most enjoyable of the day – and this is after the Ornellaia and La Gerla! It has slight mineral at the top of the nose followed by some straw and spicy raisin/fig. All fine and good, but as soon as I sip it I get a stupid grin on my face – it’s so concentrated and almost evaporates leaving a vapour of all the flavours. Wow, top Amarone. I would not be surprised if it scored a 92+ when it is rated. $89.95 95 Favourite Wine of the show

2002 Vinedo Chadwick – Vina Errazuriz
Previous vintages of this wine have stacked up quite well against the coveted first growths of Bordeaux so I decided to give it taste. Light smoky oak that is well integrated and a light earthiness. Well balanced, but overall lacking a certain punch to distinguish it from the previous wines. Perhaps it would get even better with some air. 92 Wine Spectator $79 90


Vines Fine Wine area:
The other fine wine hot spot, but some tastings were ridiculously overpriced ($10/2oz to taste the Tignanello!) This was the spot for Barolo.

2001 ‘I Classici’ Barolo – Marchesi di Barolo
There is a light perfume reminiscent of earthy truffle, crushed pomegranate, and the sweet edge of new oak. I also notice faint Cedar/sandalwood and rubber notes. The elements seem to be there but it is a bit watery and sour for a Barolo. Not quite cutting it for me. $49.95 88

2001 Barolo Ginestra – Paolo Conterno
When you have this next to the Marchesi it is obviously better. There’s a sweet caramel coating surrounding red fruits, dried flowers/leaves and big gripping tannins. There are hints of the characteristic Barolo fruity tar notes, but not as much as I like. Good, but the 1995 was better. $59.95 91

2001 Barolo – Massolino
This has the most extract of the 3 Barolo’s so far. Healthy tannins, ripe strawberry/cherry, exotic perfumed spice, and just a touch of tar. Well structured I think. Wine Spectator noted that it was outstanding if slightly one-dimensional and gave it a 92. Decently priced for a Barolo. $49.95 93

Wines of California Booth
Didn’t notice too many exciting wines here, but took the opportunity to try the Ravenswood Zin.

(Vintage?) ‘Vintners Blend’ Zinfandel – Ravenswood
Some blackberry jam notes, but not much balance or extraction. It’s too sweet for my taste, a little over ripe. I think I like the Rosenblum 2004 blend more (which was previously reviewed here April 2006). $19.95 87

Wines of Germany
After tiring out my palate with huge red wines it was time for some lovely German white wines.

2003 Bachracher Wolfshoehle Riesling Spätelse - Mades
This wine from the Mittelrhein displays a distinctive oily petrol nose with citrus (orange/grapefruit) notes. Touch of sweetness and freshness. Just what I needed. $21.95 90

2004 Bereich Bingen Auslese – Schmitt Söhne
A perfumed nose of peach and floral elements (rose petals) greets the nose immediately. Delicate with very low acidity, maybe a touch flabby though. Wicked value. $10.40 88

2003 Niersteiner Findling Siegerrebe Auslese – Eugen Wehrheim
Siegerrebe is a cross of a Gewürztraminer and a red table grape. This wine was released at Vintages Nov 25, 2006. Major lychee fruit (you can’t miss it) courtesy of the Gewürztraminer not doubt. Although Nat Decants gives it a 90 I found it rather one dimensional. Low acidity, as you would expect with an auslese, but with a clean finish. $20.95 87

----More reviews to come over the holiday wine and food fest (i.e. family dinners).