Once in Awhile Wines

One of my favourite things about this wine affliction I’ve developed, and I’m sure I’m not alone on this, is opening that bottle I’ve been saving for a special occasion. Good company, good food, and good wine are a combination that has made for many a memorable evening. To me, great wines always seem better when they are shared. Sure you could drink that Cheval Blanc in a Styrofoam cup at a fast-food joint, but we all know that it would be even better if we shared it with someone we cared about while munching on some tasty grub.

I would never open the following wines on a regular day, not just because I can’t afford to, but because when I bought them I didn’t just think about how good they would be, I thought about the occasion.

2003 Clio – Bodegas El Nido
Right out of the bottle the nose explodes with raspberry jam, plum, spices, some cassis, cured and smoked meat, dark vanilla, and coconut cream. The coconut cream lingers a long time, evidence of the barrel treatment. The substantial oak adds sweetness to the nose and finish, but this wine has the stuffing to carry the oak without being smothered by it. With time in the glass a Port like spice note comes out and a curious freshly squeezed orange juice element. Suave and satisfying. 70% Mourvèdre with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. 96 Wine Advocate: “…creme de cassis intermixed with licorice, espresso roast, chocolate, and toasty oak. Its broad, intensely flavored, super-opulent personality offers up great fruit, plenty of glycerin, and a heady, long finish.” $57 95

2006 Amon-Ra Shiraz – Ben Glaetzer
This wine was a stunner. I decanted half the bottle and kept the rest in the bottle which turned out to be a good idea, because some of the delicate aromatics were lost after a few hours – proof that decanting doesn’t necessarily improve a wine. Very deep and engaging, a pure expression of the grape. Savoury soy sauce, Asian spices (cumin, black pepper), fruity chocolate, loads of blackberry. There is something mysterious and dark about this wine that is hard to articulate, like it’s hiding something in its depths. After 4 hours in the decanter medicinal aromas of menthol and an aroma that very strongly reminds me of a topical rub for sore muscles come out. Long finish with well structured fine tannins. 97-100 Wine Advocate: “…smoke, vanilla, pepper, Asian spices, coconut, espresso, blueberry, and chocolate. Thick, rich, layered, and complete, this monumental wine offers extraordinary intensity and length. It requires 10-15 years to fully evolve and should easily last through 2040.” $85 98

2004 Vintage Charles DuPuy – Mas Amiel
And now for something completely different. Ever heard of Maury? Unfortunately I hadn’t heard of this appellation in the region of Roussillon before this wine. It’s made from Grenache in a slightly off-dry style. Strongly reminiscent of Port but with an explosion of spices (black pepper, black tea), nuts, minerals, cured meat, grape skins, and sour cherry jam. The sweetness is balanced out by firm tannins. It becomes more like a nutty Tawny Port with time. This could stand with most Vintage Ports no problem. 93 Wine Advocate: “From Grenache planted in 1914, the 2004 Maury Vintage Charles Dupuy fills the nose and mouth with dried cherries, black raspberry preserves and cocoa, laced with vanilla, walnuts, shaved bitter chocolate, and szechuan peppercorns. This amazingly intense, penetrating, complex wine has a fine-grained tannic backbone yet vibrant forward fruit and viscous, opulent intensity, so enjoy it now or anytime over the next two decades.” $60 94

2005 Château Suduiraut
This comes from the highly touted 2005 vintage this was even better than I expected from the ratings. Amazingly penetrating nose of Sauternes smoke (botrytis), beeswax, caramel, candied pineapple, apricot and honey. Round and mouth coating with a long, long finish. Fresh acidity prevents this from being heavy or cloying. Absolutely love the nose! Not far off from the 2003 Chateau d’Yquem. Noticed some added complexity the next day with Riesling like petrol along with molasses and candied pineapple. Ratings are all over the place with this one: 92 International Wine Cellar “A powerfully fruit-driven Sauternes with superb depth, but it's almost too rich today”, 95-100 Wine Spectator prerelease “Better than 2003”, 93 Wine Spectator after release “…dried pineapple, honey, pear, caramel…”, 96 from Wine and Spirits, 18+/20 Jancis Robinson. $55 for 375mL 96

2008 Gourmet Food and Wine Expo

Yet another year at the Expo. Overall I found the wines less exciting than previous years, but there were still some gems. I scored all of these before finding out what the critics’ ratings were, so you can see how my notes and ratings compare.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Clos Pegase
The alcohol came through in the nose along with the barrel toast (vanilla and charred wood). Very ripe plum, cured meat, chocolate, fruity finish, but the heat and dusty wood overwhelm at this point in time. Not as plush as I was hoping. 92 from Wine Enthusiast: ripe currant, cassis, chocolate and licorice flavors, luscious. $50.95 89

2004 Château Le Carillon
At fist whiff there is a dirty diaper like odour that dissipates with some swirling (really not as off-putting as it sounds, honest). Strawberry and cherry, dark stewed fruits, bay leaf, and mineral. Elegant and not too heavy or overdone. 92 from Toronto Life: ripe cherry, plum, leather, mocha, and anise; sweet, elegant and poised, with excellent length. $ 39.95 90

2003 Print Shiraz – Mitchelton
This wine was a nice surprise! The staff who were pouring this one had to convince me to try it, and I wasn’t expecting much as I’d never heard of it before. Rich black fruit laden nose (mulberry, blackberry) with a distinct salty savoury character that reminds me of the 2004 Astralis I had a while back (but this is a fraction of the cost). I find this salty savoury character in a lot of my favourite top end Shirazes, here it reminds me of soy sauce and a sea breeze. Very grippy finish – this will age well. Unbeknownst to me at the time Wine Spectator scored it at the same 92 points. I bought one to cellar for 5 years or so. $44.75 92

2004 Barolo Lazzarito – Vietti
Aromas of faint dried roses, red wine gums, anise, toasted bread. The typical Barolo tar note is here but it seems like a thin, weaker version. Lean and still needs some time, but not something I’ll be adding to the cellar (especially at this price). 93 Wine Advocate: dark fruit, smoke, licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak. 95 International Wine Cellar: minerals, brown spices, Cuban tobacco and menthol. I agree more with the Wine Advocate notes, but not the score based on sample I had. $120 89

2004 Château Climens
This has a nice waxy nose with caramel popcorn, honey, citrus and the mouthfeel is rich and thick with good weight and balance. Good Barsac for sure. 92 from Wine Spectator: “…apricot tart, with hints of candied lemons on the nose. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with lovely concentration and a lemony, spicy, almost flinty aftertaste. Impressive for the vintage.” $129 (750mL) 93

2004 Alion
Alion was started by the legendary Vega Sicilia in Ribera del Duero in 1991. This was more New World than I was expecting with evident oak and the Tempranillo character I like so much was not at the forefront, but will probably become more evident with age. Sweet ripe cherry, cassis, faint cedar and tobacco, and a light floral element lingering in the aftertaste. 96 Wine Advocate. $80.95 91+

2005 Croix de Beaucaillou
This is the second wine of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, and not a bad one at that. Light and lifted aromas of strawberry cheesecake, raspberry, and light herbs. The wine is pleasantly soft around the edges and finish. It is accessible now and should drink well in the short term. Looks like agree with Robert Parker on this, he scores it 91 as well. $57.95 91

1979 Crême de Tête – Château Gilette
It’s not often that I get to try a Sauternes that is this old, let alone aged in concrete vats. After shelling out $22 for a 1oz sample I was intrigued by what I sipped, but ultimately this is something I would not buy even if it was cheaper. Rich caramel, citrus peel, some smoke. Turns a little sour and oxidized tasting on the finish. There is a definite mineral aspect to it but not the normal vinous kind, more like water that has been stored in a clay vase. Considering how long it is stored in those concrete vats I’m sure it’s more than just suggestion that it smells and tastes of clay pot. Light amber in colour and faint floral and beeswax notes. I think I prefer my Sauternes oak aged. $195 (500ml) 90

1996 Château Calon-Ségur
This came across very green and smoky – I’m having flashbacks of Niagara. Raw bell pepper, cassis and spices, and savoury herbs. A bit lean and tannic. The finish is not that long. The oak is still strong and the amount of astringency this still has suggests that this can still age another 5-8 years. 92 from Wine Access: “The 1996 may not be as profound as I had predicted from cask, but it is an exceptional wine. Dark ruby-colored, with a complex nose of dried herbs, Asian spices, and black cherry jam intermixed with cassis, it possesses outstanding purity, and considerable tannin in the finish. This classic, medium to full-bodied, traditionally made wine improves dramatically with airing, suggesting it will have a very long life”. $167 90

Tour de France

After a few tastings without a set theme it was decided that the wines of France deserved a special tasting. After all, what other country has so dominated and shaped the world of wine? France is home to the most expensive and sought after examples of vinous excellence, yet there are still regions that remain relatively undiscovered by audiences outside of France with very little making it into international glasses. With so much variety and quality you could spend most of your time drinking wine from France and not get bored.

With the lure or cheaper high quality New World wines it’s easy to pass on French wines, but the more I come to appreciate les vins de France the more I realize that they offer gustatory experiences that cannot be found elsewhere. If you want to understand Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, or any of the countless varieties that originate in France, you have to try them from where they have the longest history, where they are made better because they have been grown and turned into wine for generations.

Although we covered wines from most of the major regions of France we ended up a little heavy on the Southern regions and didn’t have Champagne or Alsace as planned. In the future we’ll hopefully focus on each region individually.

Burgundy
2005 is widely regarded as one of the best vintages for Burgundy in recent times. Here we have examples from both ends of the Côte d’Or: a Chambolle-Musigny (Côte de Nuits) and Volnay (Côte de Beaune). Both are elegant more ‘feminine’ styles of Pinot.

2005 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes – Frédéric Magnien
Pleasantly perfumed with a floral spice, cherry and raspberry, earthy beetroot, and some Pinot funk (a.k.a. barnyard). Still good after 24 hours in the decanter with its sweet perfume intact and showing more black fruit. This should age nicely a few more years. 88-91 Burghound: red and blue berry, spice, earth, “…structured middle weight flavors that possess lovely detail and nuance though the finish features well integrated but notable firm tannins”. $55.95 91

2005 Volnay – Joseph Drouhin
Round and elegant, this wine has a suave mouthfeel and expressive nose with notes of cherry, wood smoke/incense, light vanilla, loam, and mild barnyard. With air a tar-like scent develops. Like the Magnien Chambolle it also has a sweet fruity perfume characteristic of Pinot Noir. The vanilla, wood smoke and high spice notes show some of the barrel’s influence. I like the interplay of the spice and sweet perfumed notes. $52.55 90

Bordeaux
The best know and most utilized varieties of the region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. The most prestigious wines are usually second only to those of Burgundy in terms of price. Although Bordeaux is primarily know for its red wine the appellation of Sauternes has carved out a reputation for making some of the best dessert wines in the world from grapes affected by botrytis.

1994 Château Léoville-Barton
It was nice to have an example that has been cellared for a while. The nose is pretty expressive with sweet cassis, cured tobacco leaf, light herbs and sweet cedar. Strangely has some astringency that appears briefly on the finish before fading just as quickly as it came. The biggest let down with this wine was the abrupt finish (a quick review of the notes at Cellar Tracker revealed we were not the only ones to experience this). 90 Wine Advocate: serious, classic Bordeaux, a 30 year wine. 90 Wine Spectator: berry, chocolate, tobacco, chewy tannins. $98.20 90

2004 Château Guiraud
An okay vintage as opposed to the 2001 (excellent) and 2003 (very good), but this still had more punch than I was expecting. Gobs of beeswax, vanilla, pineapple, spice (botrytis), peach, and even a little Riesling like petrol hiding in there. Not as concentrated as the 2003 Suduiraut (below), but still good. 92 Wine Spectator: spicy, with dried apricot and lemon character. $39 92

2003 Château Suduiraut
Darker and with more body and concentration than the 2004 Guiraud. Good acidity and long finish. Beeswax and lanolin, a fine sweet smoke like element, dried pineapple (this reminded one taster of Bulk Barn bins). 93 Wine Spectator: pecan pie, dried apricot, apples, syrup, dense mouthfeel, long, powerful and spicy aftertaste. 19/20 The Wine Doctor: “Really meaty, ripe and opulently textured. Lovely substance here, fresh acidity, and stunningly precise, persistent flavours. This is divine. Of every wine at the UGCB tasting, this is the only one I would come back to for pleasure rather than reassessment”. 22/25 Wine Journal (.com): “The palate is well-defined, very elegant: poised like a ballerina on tip-toe”, “One of the best wines of 2003”. $44.65 94

Côtes du Rhône
The wines we tried were all from Southern Rhône which are quite different from those of the north due in part to the choice of grapes. In Southern Rhône Grenache takes the dominant role with Syrah, Mourvèdre, and sometimes Cinsault making it into the mix (along with a gamut of minor grapes).

2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Domaine Grand Veneur
I was very impressed by this wine which I think was at the beginning of its peak drinking window. It was impactful with very open aromas of fine spices (pepper) and garrigue with leather, blackberry, almond, cherry, and floral liquorice. Can’t mistake the origin of this wine, it has Châteauneuf-du-Pape all over it. After the tasting I found out that Wine Spectator rated this wine a mere 86 in its buying guide commenting “not complex”. Wine Advocate scored it 90. Once I calibrated my palate my initial score of 95 dropped a bit, but I still think this wine was underrated and doesn’t take into account how well it aged. $30-40 94

2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Clos Saint Jean
Straight out of the bottle it was acidic and lean but quickly deepened and opened up to a dark balanced wine. Blackberry, black cherry, complex spice nuances of garrigue and cloves, and a sanguine undertone (iron, blood). This will age well which was evident from the fact that it tasted great 3 days later showing extra nuances of pine/under brush. 93 Wine Spectator: fig, currant paste, mocha, loam, tar, licorice. 93 Wine Advocate: incense, melted licorice, blackberry, and sweet cherry, the wine is peppery, spicy, “…superb example of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that should drink well for 10-15 years”. $45.95 93+

2004 Gigondas – Château du Trignon
Lots of spicy high notes (white pepper mostly) and a bitter-sweetness that reminds me of dark chocolate (as other tasters also noted). Kind of like a spiced chocolate with Herbs de Provence and fruit. Grows on you. 91 International Wine Cellar: blackberry, cassis, lavender and graphite, long juicy finish. $27.95 89

Languedoc-Roussillon
Often overlooked, this region produces many wines on the same level as Southern Rhône but for much more agreeable prices. There are plenty of bargains to be found.

2004 Barbabelle – Marc Kreydenweiss
This biodynamic wine from the Costières de Nîmes appellation shows Grenache characteristics of spice and raspberry/cherry with some mineral. Nice balance, not overly done. I noticed some salty liquorice candy and cider/tar notes during re-evaluation the next day. There is also some Carignan and Syrah in the blend. Can’t argue with the quality to price ratio here. $12.95 90

2003 Grande Cuvée – Château de Lancyre
It’s easy to confuse this with something from the Rhône with its spice box, cherry gum, bay leaf, chalk and mineral aspects. I thought it was solid, but was missing some depth. 92 Wine Spectator: savory spiced aroma, dark plum, mocha, spice, impressive structure. $27 89

Loire
Seeing as we had enough wine on the table I chose to forgo the Loire Cabernet Franc I’m so fond of and focus on another overlooked varietal that does particularly well in the cooler climes of the region: Chenin Blanc.

2006 Vouvray Demi-Sec – Château Moncontour
This came across with an almost Riesling like minerality and a very expressive, open nose of apple, plasticine, sweetgrass, and flowers. The ripeness is balanced with a crisp acidity (i.e. those who didn’t like any sweetness in their wines were still able to appreciate this) showing evidence of a well timed harvest. One taster noted “first-aid kit” much to our amusement, but I can see where he was coming from, I just chose to call it plasticine (a modelling clay). Quite palate filling and enjoyable. $17.95 92

2003 Coteaux du Layon Saint Aubin – Domaine Cady
Very concentrated with an almost ice wine like power, but not as syrupy. Green ginger, subtle smoky wood spice, with a rich fruit compote of kumquat and apricot. A little chemical spicy note when it warms up, best served cold. Could have done with a touch more acid to liven it up. If you are so inclined, this will age well for a few years. $25.95 90

2007 Gourmet Food & Wine Expo

As usual the Vines Fine Wine Tasting Lounge and the Vintages booth were the really the only place to find the most coveted wines, the other exhibitors were only pouring entry level plonk. I did try some nice wines at the Germany booth, but the real draw for me was the high end stuff I would almost never buy a whole bottle of.

2003 La Chapelle Hermitage – Paul Jaboulet
Ridiculously tight at the moment, but with some vigorous swirling the nose opened up revealing ripe black, slightly raisiny fruit. I got notes of ripe plum, faint caramel, savoury black olive (typical of most big Syrah for me), cedar, burnt underbrush, maybe a bit ferric/bloody. Spicy finish, like Grains of Paradise (floral and peppery). It was very closed and tannic on the palate, but shows great potential to age. I’d give it 5 years at least. Wine Spectator 96: blackberry, boysenberry, black currant, mocha, mineral and tar. International Wine Cellar 91-95: blackberry, blueberry, licorice and camphor, along with a suggestion of exotic spices. Wine Access 95: creme de cassis, crushed flowers, truffles, and licorice. $159 94+

2003 Château d’Yquem
Wow! This was the wine of the show for me. It had been open for a day but showed no sign of fading, if anything it probably helped open it up. The nose explodes with seductively smoky beeswax, guava paste, coconut, apricot – it smells rich and fat if that’s possible. So unctuous, it coats your mouth and then infuses it with its essence. The finish goes on and on. Like a caramel candy in the aftertaste, but much better. Little citrus rind and a subtle greenness in there too Wine Spectator 98: lemon rind, vanilla cream and dried pineapple. Wine Access 94-96. $250 for 375 mL 97

2002 E&E Black Pepper Shiraz – Barossa Valley Estate
This has some fruity and medicinal elements that I enjoy: iodine, blackberry and plum. Loads of black pepper, just as the name suggests, with some black olive, floral (violets), cedar, and blueberry. Great acid, demands some hearty food to go with it. Barrel toast is evident and the pepper is a bit aggressive. This is more floral than La Chapelle, but overall it doesn’t have the same structure and balance. I think the 97 Wine Spectator rating is overly generous, especially when comparing this to La Chapelle. 90 from Wine Enthusiast. $ 99.95 92+

2003 Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland - Balthasar Ress
From a vineyard near Rüdesheimer mountain in the Rheingau this late harvest wine has great balancing acidity and distinct mineral/slate elements. Mild almond, custard, green apple, and white peach with a refreshing finish. This won gold at a competition I can’t remember (Ottawa?). $26.95 91

2003 Keyneton Estate The Euphonium – Henschke
This was initially good at first sip but for some reason became less impressive the more we drank. Lots of spicy toasty oak, cassis, black and red fruit, and thyme. The balance is nice but the finish is average. International Wine Cellar 91: fruitcake, molasses, anise and dark chocolate, smoky, musky tobacco and cured meat notes, sweet blackberry and blackcurrant flavours. I can’t say I noted most of those elements in my tasting other than the blackcurrant, sounds like he had a richer wine. $51.95 90

2004 Clos Apalta – Casa Lapostolle
This was a bit of a disappointment for me because I have wanted to try this wine for a while and expected a little more for the price and reputation. Tobacco, refined spices (cloves, cinnamon, pepper), sweet fruit (black cherry and strawberry), vanilla, and a hint of sage. Not easy to put my finger on, but it did remind me of Carmenere I’ve had before (especially that sweet fruit and tobacco aspect). 86% Carmenere with the rest being Merlot. 91 Wine Acess: pain grille, spice box, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. $96 90

1999 Brute Rosé Champagne – Pol Roger
I’m far from being an expert when it comes to champagne but I was not fond of this at all. Lemon zest, cranberry and an unpleasant sharp sulfite smell which I’m told is the style. I don’t think the small tasting portion helped either because I find I need a larger portion to evaluate sparkling wines as the carbon dioxide tends to mute the nose. Either way I thought it was poor value. 90 Wine Spectator: candied berry and lemon meringue. $88.95 85

2007 Toronto Wine and Cheese Show

What drew me to this show was the chance to taste great wines that I wouldn’t get the chance to taste anywhere else for a reasonable price. Although I tried a few other more moderately priced wines I only took notes on the biggest and the best as this was my primary focus. These wines were not always from the most raved about vintages (often years before or after a blockbuster vintage), but they still gave me a taste of what the top wines in the world can offer. All of these wines were poured at the Classics premium tasting area.
Note: the ‘+’ after my rating denotes that the wine could score higher with some time to age.



2001 Château Latour
Anyone who has taken a serious interest in the wines of Bordeaux, or wine in general, will know this name’s repute instantly. 2001 didn’t get the acclaim of the 2000 vintage, but it is also priced less ridiculously as a result. I think this wine definitely has many more years ahead of it to fully develop, but it is somewhat accessible now. I get whiffs of charred oak, mulberry (some might say cassis), and surprisingly some light sour cherry – but still more on the black fruit side of the spectrum. There is a certain roundness to the character and though the tannins are very fine they still have good grip. There is a light floral element – lilac? Perhaps some mineral and black tea elements in there as well. Very long finish with plum fruit lingering. Rated 95 by both Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate; 92 from International Wine Cellar. $330 94+




1995 Château Lynch-Bages
Though it’s rated as a fifth growth this has very little to do with its quality. The colour is a nice burgundy at the rim which shows its age as do the aromas of light earthy smoke and tobacco (slightly green), with a little fruity plum and cassis at first. There are also some faint meaty elements adding to the character. Light spicy plum on the finish. It was a completely different experience than the Latour (as I expected from the age and producer). 91 Wine Advocate – my notes are similar to Parker’s which is usually not the case (he seems to pick out completely different things than I do). Drink now or over the next 5 years. $175 91


2004 Astralis – Clarendon Hills
This wine blew me away; it was like nothing I’ve tried before. At first I got a pleasantly odd concentrated black olive-like fruitiness with some very nice minty/eucalyptus-like notes joining the chorus of soft vanillins (from the oak) and ripe black fruit. This is going to sound strange but there is definitely some soy sauce in the nose (I kept thinking of Asian food until I was able to put my finger on it)! Nicely spiced plum pudding towards the end. Even some roasted meat (very little). A little softer on the finish than I was expecting, which is the only thing I wasn’t too fond of, but it is so silky smooth. I’d give it another 5-10 years, but it’s quite drinkable now. Robert Parker thinks this will go over 30 years, but when it’s this good why wait that long? He gives it 96-98, once again we agree (but his notes read a little different than mine). $390 97


1999 Château D’Yquem
Being the only Château in Sauternes to garner the Premier Cru Supérieur classification this wine comes with a huge reputation. I am a budding Sauternes enthusiast so the opportunity to try the greatest of them all (even in a mediocre year) was quite a treat. Very waxy with honey and beeswax and light floral elements taking the fore and a little botrytis spice in the background, not bad, but not the complexity I was hoping for. The experience in the mouth was amazing though; rich and unctuous but light and smooth as smoke, with some suggestions of smoke in the taste profile as well. Lingering apricot and honey finish. Quite a pleasant encounter. Wine Spectator gives it a 95. $175 (for 375mL) 94



2003 Ermitage l’Ermite – M. Chapoutier
The hue is an amazing royal purple. It has a black olive note similar to the Astralis, but with more meatiness and a slightly iodine/medicinal tinge. It also has more grip with slight cherry, dark fruit, light vanilla – very pure expression, well delineated flavours. I don’t know if it’s the perfection that Parker is referring to but it is really nice. With such structure I’d like to try this wine in another 10 years. 100 from Wine Advocate. $199 95+