Funky Assemblage - Pinotage

Pinotage is a cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir that was created in South Africa with the intension of making an easier to grow version of Pinot Noir. South Africa remains the main source of Pinotage globally (although there are some plantings in New Zealand). Pinotage has had its share of criticism, but now that winemakers have learned how to deal with its quirks good wines are being made on a more regular basis.

I remember my first bottle of Pinotage had me so puzzled I opened up a second bottle just to make sure what I was experiencing wasn’t the result of a spoiled bottle. Since then I’ve had a few more bottles and I still find Pinotage to be curiously funky, but not without its appeal. For those who, as I do, find enjoyment in wines that deliver unique gustatory experiences I would recommend at least giving it a try – and since most good Pinotages are decently priced you won’t have to spend a lot to do so.

The character of Pinotage has been described with terms like banana and rusty nails. I would describe the aromas/flavours of Pinotage as having elements of musty earth, funky ripe black fruits, barnyard, and a distinct bloody/ferrous sharpness that seems to dissipate with air. It would be pretty hard to mistake Pinotage for anything else. In a way it’s like the blunter, funkier bastard son of Pinot Noir.

2004 Pinotage – Môreson
I tried this interesting wine a while back with the Clos Malverne below. The nose made me do a double take: aromas of musty earth, beetroot, barnyard, and iron which soften with time in the glass. Additional elements of smoky spice, raspberry, and unripe strawberry unfold after the initial punch in the nose. This wine won Double Gold at Veritas in 2005. $18.95 85

2003 Reserve Pinotage – Clos Malverne
Very similar character to the Môreson up front but with more toasty oak and a sweeter, riper berry depth behind it. Interesting spice notes (clove and cumin would be the closest match) and black cherry. Blood red in colour to match the ferric element. Probably would benefit from some time in the cellar. Gold Medal at the 2006 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles and was also named as one of the top 10 Pinotage wines of the year in 2006 by South Africa's Pinotage Association. So this is obviously a good example of what Pinotage should be, but whether you like it or not is a matter of personal taste. $17.95 86

2007 Café Culture Pinotage - KWV
The price was right so I decided to give it a try after a long break from the funk. As expected the nose is downright funky out of the bottle. The wine is really ripe, maybe overripe with an obvious lingering taste and smell of prune juice. Loads of vanilla from the oak combines with the fruit to give the impression of coffee. Has the Pinotage funk of earth, blood, and some rubber. One way to describe this wine is obscene. I think the overdone oak and ripeness actually moderates the funk here. Not my thing, but I still got a kick out of it. Gold Medal at the 2007 Michelangelo International Wine Awards. $13.95 86

The verdict: I won’t be stocking up on more Pinotage anytime soon, but when I’m I the mood for something peculiar I know what to reach for.