Funky Assemblage - Pinotage

Pinotage is a cross of Cinsault and Pinot Noir that was created in South Africa with the intension of making an easier to grow version of Pinot Noir. South Africa remains the main source of Pinotage globally (although there are some plantings in New Zealand). Pinotage has had its share of criticism, but now that winemakers have learned how to deal with its quirks good wines are being made on a more regular basis.

I remember my first bottle of Pinotage had me so puzzled I opened up a second bottle just to make sure what I was experiencing wasn’t the result of a spoiled bottle. Since then I’ve had a few more bottles and I still find Pinotage to be curiously funky, but not without its appeal. For those who, as I do, find enjoyment in wines that deliver unique gustatory experiences I would recommend at least giving it a try – and since most good Pinotages are decently priced you won’t have to spend a lot to do so.

The character of Pinotage has been described with terms like banana and rusty nails. I would describe the aromas/flavours of Pinotage as having elements of musty earth, funky ripe black fruits, barnyard, and a distinct bloody/ferrous sharpness that seems to dissipate with air. It would be pretty hard to mistake Pinotage for anything else. In a way it’s like the blunter, funkier bastard son of Pinot Noir.

2004 Pinotage – Môreson
I tried this interesting wine a while back with the Clos Malverne below. The nose made me do a double take: aromas of musty earth, beetroot, barnyard, and iron which soften with time in the glass. Additional elements of smoky spice, raspberry, and unripe strawberry unfold after the initial punch in the nose. This wine won Double Gold at Veritas in 2005. $18.95 85

2003 Reserve Pinotage – Clos Malverne
Very similar character to the Môreson up front but with more toasty oak and a sweeter, riper berry depth behind it. Interesting spice notes (clove and cumin would be the closest match) and black cherry. Blood red in colour to match the ferric element. Probably would benefit from some time in the cellar. Gold Medal at the 2006 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles and was also named as one of the top 10 Pinotage wines of the year in 2006 by South Africa's Pinotage Association. So this is obviously a good example of what Pinotage should be, but whether you like it or not is a matter of personal taste. $17.95 86

2007 Café Culture Pinotage - KWV
The price was right so I decided to give it a try after a long break from the funk. As expected the nose is downright funky out of the bottle. The wine is really ripe, maybe overripe with an obvious lingering taste and smell of prune juice. Loads of vanilla from the oak combines with the fruit to give the impression of coffee. Has the Pinotage funk of earth, blood, and some rubber. One way to describe this wine is obscene. I think the overdone oak and ripeness actually moderates the funk here. Not my thing, but I still got a kick out of it. Gold Medal at the 2007 Michelangelo International Wine Awards. $13.95 86

The verdict: I won’t be stocking up on more Pinotage anytime soon, but when I’m I the mood for something peculiar I know what to reach for.

Fairview – Goats do Roam

Hailing from often overlooked South Africa the cheekily named wines of Fairview have garnered quite a bit of praise in the last few years. Their ‘Goats do Roam’ line has some high quality decently priced wines worth exploring.

I have tried both the 2003 and 2004 ‘Goats do Roam in Villages’, here are my impressions:

2003 Goats do Roam in Villages
Well balanced. The new oak is not overpowering and I detect some floral (violets?), spice (cardamom), and semi-ripe strawberry blackberry elements. Not huge, but fine sipping. I found that it had decent acidity making it a good food wine, but a knowledgeable wine buddy of mine thinks the 2004 has better acidity. Wine Spectator gave it a 90. VG-E

2004 Goats do Roam in Villages
Lots of plum and cherry, red currant with a peculiar salty licorice preserved plum note (at least to me). Not as much body and more acid than the previous, as well as a bit hot and peppery on the finish. It improves with breathing (a sign that it can probably age for a few years), but is not as polished as the previous year in my opinion. There is a touch of smoke, but the oak influence here isn't quite right for me. It’s best to allow this one to breath in a decanter before serving. $15.95. G-VG (had 2 bottles with similar results)

Note: For more reviews of Fairview wines see this site - These guys have a similar tasting impression of the 2004 as I do.

If you’re looking for a more value priced wine the Goats do Roam Red is available as a Vintages Essential ($12.85) and pretty damn tasty. Also a nice one to look out for is the Viognier accented Shiraz Goat-Roti ($19.95) which is being released July 22, 06.

Vintages – June 10, 2006 Release

Not too many products caught my eye in this release, but I did find 2 wines I was intrigued enough to buy. I was also contemplating the 2003 Château L’Hospitalet ‘La Réserve’ Rouge ($18.95, and 92 from Wine Spectator), but never got around to it (thankfully for my wallet).

Here are the two I decide to get:

2004 Chenin Blanc - Kanu
It’s been a long time since I’ve had a South African Chenin and this one was quite enticing rated at 90 by the Wine Enthusiast. I was definitely not disappointed. Honeydew melon and pear mingle with floral honey and candied orange peel all of which lingers nicely with the smooth finish. On the nose I detect something slightly green (peas?). Smells like it may have been left on the lees a while. A bit of sweetness, but just enough acid to make it a nice food wine. The pear and melon remind me a lot of a Pinot Grigio. Great value, I bought 2 more bottles. $11.95 VG-E

2003 Mucadet de Sèvre et Maine (Sur Lie) – Domain de Grand Maison (Langlois- Château)
Not as perfumed as I was expecting from a Muscadet, nor is it very floral. Light lemon/grapefruit with strawberry patch aromas and some ‘greasy/resinous’ mineral undertones (I guess this is what the Vintages notes refer to as ‘mineral and pine resin’). Maybe some melon aromas? What impressed me was despite the light character of this wine the mouth feel and weight were fabulous; very full round texture (the time on lees has something to do with that probably). However, strongly flavoured food will overpower this wine so pair it accordingly. $13.95 VG