The Red of Loire - Cabernet Franc

Underappreciated
The red wines of Loire have to be some of the most overlooked of France, and I’ll admit they were overlooked by me until recently. Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Côte du Rhone garner the most attention and praise, which is evident in the pricing of wines coming from these regions and by the number of well published reviews they get. The farther you get from France the less likely anyone has heard anything about Loire; even within France Loire keeps a relatively low profile. Red wine from Loire is conspicuously absent from the North American market, where if you do see a wine from Loire it’s probably a white from Sancerre.

I think the reason the wines of Loire are so underappreciated and underrepresented internationally has a lot to do with the current preference for highly extracted, heavily oaked, super ripe, dense wines – characteristics that a wine from Loire will not have, and I hope never will. I love a rich and ripe wine, but sometimes I crave something a little different, something that shows more character unique to where it is from. Another factor working against these wines is the few who have had a wine from Loire had one that was thin and overly herbaceous leading them to avoid the wines altogether.

The most notable red wine from Loire is primarily made from Cabernet Franc (know locally as Breton) and in most cases is 100% Cabernet Franc. Up to 10% Cabernet Sauvginon is allowed but not frequently utilized. Under-ripe and over-cropped Cabernet Franc can produce aggressive green notes of vegetation, leaves, and green bell pepper – not very pleasant. But if yields are low and the conditions are right Cabernet Franc can make wines with elegance, depth, and loads of character. Violets, tobacco, fig, and strawberry are common aromas in wines made from Cabernet Franc.

Here are the reasons I think more people should give Cabernet Franc from Loire a first or second look:

1. The best examples have a floral perfume and elegance not unlike some Burgundian wines.


2. They are ideal food wines because they are not overly tannic or heavy and have good acidity; instead of distracting from the food they compliment it.


3. The wines communicate the uniqueness of Cabernet Franc and their terroir very well.


4. They are very expressive aromatically.


5. Great value. Since they are not highly sought after the best wines still have moderate prices. You will notice that none of the wines reviewed below are over $25 and my favourite turned out to be under $14. Couly-Dutheil’s flagship wine Clos de l'Echo Crescendo regularly comes in under $50 even with the LCBO’s markup (the 2003 received 93 from Wine Spectator). It really doesn’t cost much to explore these wines.

The bottom line: intriguing wines verging on under priced that go well with a wide range of food. What’s not to like? I was sold after I tired La Coudraye from Yannick Amirault for the first time despite the fact I wasn’t expecting much. Drinking my first 2003 La Coudraye was one of my most memorable wine moments of 2007, and it kindled my passion for the region.

Appellations
The wines below come from appellations in the heart of the Loire valley which produce the best Cabernet Franc. On the north bank of the Loire River is Bourgueil with similar wines and soils as Chinon across the river which is mostly limestone and some gravel beds. Wines from Bourgueil are thought to have slightly more aging potential than those from Chinon. Yannick Amirault is regarded by many as a master in Bourgueil. Neighboring Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil which is on more sandy soil makes wines that is slightly less full bodied than those from Bourgueil. Saumur Champigny is on the south bank of the Loire next to Chinon, its soil is more chalky. Saumur Champigny regularly puts out good Cab Franc, but I found some examples to be less elegant than from elsewhere in Loire. Langlois Chateau and Clos Rougeard are names to look for in Saumur Champigny.

Vintages
2003 was a very warm year in Loire as it was through most of Europe, this allowed proper ripening of the grapes and the wines are less likely to be overly green. 2003 looked like it would be hard to top but 2005 was also warm and has been declared a vintage of a lifetime for Loire as it was in Bordeaux. Keep an eye out for 2005s which should be just making it to shelves.

Reviews
Some may disagree with the ratings I’ve assigned for these wines. I think the high marks are warranted because I found these wines so engaging. For those who might not find this style of wines as captivating I would remove a point or two. If you hate medium or light bodied wines, detest any greenness, and prefer power to elegance than give these wines a pass – more for me!

2003 ‘La Coudraye’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
This wine from Bourgueil shows off very characteristic aromas and flavours of Cabernet Franc. I usually dislike green/herbaceous or stemy notes, but here it is not overpowering or aggressive and it adds character and charm. It reminds me of dried leaves (think forest floor in autumn) with earthy clay and red fruits, mainly raspberry and figs. There is a faint metallic tinge, but it well integrated. I especially like the nose which is quite expressive and full with all the elements well defined. Not a heavy or dense wine, but it has a certain charm that has me grinning as I bury my nose in the glass. $17.95 91

2003 ‘Les Quartiers’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
Once again I am charmed with the character and poise of Yannick Amirault’s Cabernet Franc. The nose has a remarkable perfume of raspberry and sweet cigarette smoke (at least to me it does) that reminds me very strongly of the way a former girlfriend smelled when she had been smoking. There is a faint greenness. This is lighter in body than La Coudraye, making it a little too light for me, but it pairs well with a wide range of foods. Although Les Quartiers is generally considered better than La Coudraye I was not as taken by it. $23.95 89

2004 ‘La Grand Clos’ Bourgueil – Yannick Amirault
The signature green notes of Cabernet Franc mingle with stone, bright cherry, and apple cider notes. There are some rough floral notes (violet), some spice, but to me it is a touch bretty (kind of like a horse stable). Good length and concentration but slightly off balance. $20.90 89

2005 Saint Nicholas de Bourgueil – Domaine de la Chesnaie
This has the most pronounced and enthralling nose I’ve smelt in a while, its floral character reminds me of a Pinot Noir. An amazing perfume of violet, cherry, raspberry, and smoky leaves, but what made this so special to me was the addition of a sweet musky spice that seemed to be a combination of cigar box, cinnamon, and fruit. I had my nose in the glass for a long time just savouring the fragrance. Soft unaggressive tannins. Entry to finish the wine is consistent. Nicely poised. And the price warrants buying a few more bottles I think! $13.80 92

2004 ‘Lieu-dit les Vignoles’ Saumur Champigny – Cave de Saumur (Alliance Loire)
Aromas of red plum and raspberry with noticeable dried leaves, black olive, and intriguing sandalwood incense. There is a mellow metallic edge that comes out with some time in the glass. It makes for interesting sniffing but in the mouth it is lean and the tannins are a bit rough and puckering on the finish, this can be remedied by drinking it with a meal. It is certainly not a sipping wine for most palates. There are some vegetal tinges but it is offset by the smoke and fruit and I don’t find it overpowering. Short finish with a hawthorn aftertaste that reminds me of haw flakes. $15.85 86

2004 Saumur Champigny – Domaine du Ruault
At first this is close to being weedy with light bell pepper and smoky tobacco leaf. With some time I also get bitter cocoa nibs and the green dissipates and gives way to aromas that remind me of a campfire (from the barrel toast). Red fruit, unripe fig, thyme, with minimal soft tannins. $13.85 87

2004 ‘Le Bretonnière’ Saumur Champigny – Langlois Chateau
The colour is a darker than the two previous wines from Saumur Champigny. Silky tannins and a somewhat weighty almost oily mouthfeel which pleasantly surprised me. Sweet red fruit (raspberry, strawberry), slight metallic edge to the nose, fall leaves, and campfire. With more inspection: tobacco, hints of blackberry, and a light spice note that is vaguely similar to garam masala. It’s very drinkable with a lingering light and savoury finish that is almost elegant. $17.75 90

2003 ‘La Baronnie Madeleine’ Chinon – Couly-Dutheil
Couly-Dutheil’s is considered on of the top wineries in Chinon. The herbaceousness one might associate with Cab Franc is almost non-existent in this ripe wine which partly reflects the conditions of the warm 2003 vintage. Strong raspberry, strawberry, and even some plum with spicy oak lending cedar and white pepper notes. There are undertones of leather too. Nice attack and finish. The mid-palate is light, but not in a bad way, rather the wine glides through the middle to a firm finish full of smoky, floral spice and a suggestion of dark chocolate adding some depth. Out of all the Loire reds reviewed here it is the most beefy and will benefit from a short cellaring. Great value in my opinion! $18.80 92