Daniel Lenko Estate Winery – Niagara Wine Tour 2007 Part 2
This visit was interesting enough that I thought I’d separate it out from the rest of the Niagara wine tour notes. After hearing numerous good things in the media and from family about this winery I decided to see what the fuss was all about.
This couldn’t be more the antithesis of the slick commercial operations in Niagara. Unless you’re looking for the sign you will likely drive by without noticing the place, as I have done numerous times. This winery may have been somewhat under the radar, but it has developed a loyal following and I’m sure Jancis Robinson’s review of the 2002 Syrah hasn’t hurt much (Robinson said it was the best Canadian red she has tasted). You won’t find it on the Ontario Wine Route map either since Daniel Lenko prefers to skip the steep fees and market his wines by developing a reputation and word of mouth. You can find directions to the winery on the winery website http://www.daniellenko.com/.
Lenko greeted me at the door and welcomed me in to the kitchen/tasting room despite the fact I was there before the official opening time. I enjoyed talking wine with him and his strong opinions and straight talking nature made for many laughs and insights. When asked what he thought of Gamay he responded “Not fit for human consumption… have you ever had a good Gamay from Ontario?” Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon also had their turn on the block, although he does make both he won’t be planting more anytime soon.
Lenko, who is also the viticulturalist, keeps yields to a paltry 2 tons/acre. He also owns some of the oldest vines in Niagara. Quality definitely comes before quantity here, as well as a particular marketing sense as I was to learn. My visit was refreshing and I must give kudos to Daniel for being a good host.
Some wines are only available by the case and a lot of the wines are already sold out. There is no tasting fee (as it should be).
2005 Unoaked Chardonnay
Quite fruity and the 6 moths the wine spent on the lees comes through with extra body. I’m told this wine did not undergo malo-lactic fermentation and it has a good balance of acid and fruity character. Mineral, grapefruit and slightly nutty. $19.95 88
2006 Reserve Riesling
Nice slate, peachy, lime, nice balance of mineral and acid with ripe fruit. Lots of fruit, but there is a slightly candied aspect to the fruit which makes this a little less polished (like a lollipop flavour you might find in some cheap Riesling, which I see as a slight flaw in many Rieslings from Niagara or Germany). $19.95 89
2006 White Cabernet
This was a surprise, I wasn’t sure what to expect from Cabernet Franc that had been pressed prior to fermentation, but it was nice sipping. Lots of strawberry and watermelon (don’t think I’ve tasted watermelon in a wine before). Good acid, fruity, a refreshing summer sipper. This isn’t a by-product either, it was made from the same low yield vines and pressed with this end result in mind (which Lenko figured would sell well, and not surprisingly it is). $19.95 89
2006 Viogner
I found this very nutty with some tropical fruit, but mostly pear and bitter lychee nut and spice. The mouthfeel is oily and weighty and coats the palate. I like the texture of this wine but to me the interesting flavours are offset by the bitter finish. $34.95 87
2004 Old Vines Chardonnay (American Oak)
The oak seems a bit green and aggressive, or sappy as Daniel put it. Although American oak is not his first choice Lenko wanted to make the same old vines Chard at a more accessible price than the French oak version. It does have good mouthfeel with caramel toast notes. Shame about the oak. $22.95 86
2004 Old Vines Chardonnay (French Oak)
This is more balanced than the American oak version. It is buttery and has nice vanilla aromas, but is still kind of bland to me. In other words, it’s nice but it would be hard to differentiate it from many other French oaked Chards from Niagara. $29.95 89
2002 Old Vines Chardonnay (French Oak)
For comparison Lenko poured me the 2002 to see how the flavours had integrated. And indeed this wine was more balanced and complex with buttery caramel, butterscotch, smoke, hazelnut, and golden delicious apple. I like the faint smokiness. Maybe the 2004 will come along with some time. $29.95 90
2004 Old Vines Merlot
A bit stemy and green with the barrel toast coming through stronger than I’d like. Lots of vanilla, fall leaves, fine tannins, plum and red cherry. If the barrel toast was a little less I think it would be better, but if you’re not as sensitive to burnt wood as I am you’d probably rate this wine higher. $29.95 89
2004 Cabernet Franc
There is some smoky oak, but not as much as the Merlot, slightly perfumy, sweet strawberry, tobacco leaf, and grippy tannins. Great concentration and it lacks the greenness that can plague Ontario Cab Franc. May improve with some clear time. $24.95 89+
2004 Signature Chardonnay
This was my favourite wine of the tasting. Lenko mentioned peat smoke, but I noticed this more with the Old Vines Chard. Well balanced new oak lending some vanilla with mineral, citrus, and apple notes. The mouthfeel is round and the finish is very long with persistent suave pear and apple flavours. The fruit is juicy and the length and quality of the finish make for a powerful and distinctive wine. Strangely enough the wording on the website is similar to mine “…aged in French oak for 18 months, its depth, power, viscosity and complexity are unmatched” despite Lenko having said nothing of the sort to me – after tying the wine I can say he isn’t lying. $39.95 92
Lenko definitely has a solid line up, all his wines show the ripeness or the fruit he uses (thanks to low yields all the grapes reach maturity) and almost all have a silky texture. The only disappointments were the Viogner and American oaked Old Vines Chardonnay, but overall I was impressed and without a doubt I will be keeping an eye on the Chardonnay he produces.
This couldn’t be more the antithesis of the slick commercial operations in Niagara. Unless you’re looking for the sign you will likely drive by without noticing the place, as I have done numerous times. This winery may have been somewhat under the radar, but it has developed a loyal following and I’m sure Jancis Robinson’s review of the 2002 Syrah hasn’t hurt much (Robinson said it was the best Canadian red she has tasted). You won’t find it on the Ontario Wine Route map either since Daniel Lenko prefers to skip the steep fees and market his wines by developing a reputation and word of mouth. You can find directions to the winery on the winery website http://www.daniellenko.com/.
Lenko greeted me at the door and welcomed me in to the kitchen/tasting room despite the fact I was there before the official opening time. I enjoyed talking wine with him and his strong opinions and straight talking nature made for many laughs and insights. When asked what he thought of Gamay he responded “Not fit for human consumption… have you ever had a good Gamay from Ontario?” Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon also had their turn on the block, although he does make both he won’t be planting more anytime soon.
Lenko, who is also the viticulturalist, keeps yields to a paltry 2 tons/acre. He also owns some of the oldest vines in Niagara. Quality definitely comes before quantity here, as well as a particular marketing sense as I was to learn. My visit was refreshing and I must give kudos to Daniel for being a good host.
Some wines are only available by the case and a lot of the wines are already sold out. There is no tasting fee (as it should be).
2005 Unoaked Chardonnay
Quite fruity and the 6 moths the wine spent on the lees comes through with extra body. I’m told this wine did not undergo malo-lactic fermentation and it has a good balance of acid and fruity character. Mineral, grapefruit and slightly nutty. $19.95 88
2006 Reserve Riesling
Nice slate, peachy, lime, nice balance of mineral and acid with ripe fruit. Lots of fruit, but there is a slightly candied aspect to the fruit which makes this a little less polished (like a lollipop flavour you might find in some cheap Riesling, which I see as a slight flaw in many Rieslings from Niagara or Germany). $19.95 89
2006 White Cabernet
This was a surprise, I wasn’t sure what to expect from Cabernet Franc that had been pressed prior to fermentation, but it was nice sipping. Lots of strawberry and watermelon (don’t think I’ve tasted watermelon in a wine before). Good acid, fruity, a refreshing summer sipper. This isn’t a by-product either, it was made from the same low yield vines and pressed with this end result in mind (which Lenko figured would sell well, and not surprisingly it is). $19.95 89
2006 Viogner
I found this very nutty with some tropical fruit, but mostly pear and bitter lychee nut and spice. The mouthfeel is oily and weighty and coats the palate. I like the texture of this wine but to me the interesting flavours are offset by the bitter finish. $34.95 87
2004 Old Vines Chardonnay (American Oak)
The oak seems a bit green and aggressive, or sappy as Daniel put it. Although American oak is not his first choice Lenko wanted to make the same old vines Chard at a more accessible price than the French oak version. It does have good mouthfeel with caramel toast notes. Shame about the oak. $22.95 86
2004 Old Vines Chardonnay (French Oak)
This is more balanced than the American oak version. It is buttery and has nice vanilla aromas, but is still kind of bland to me. In other words, it’s nice but it would be hard to differentiate it from many other French oaked Chards from Niagara. $29.95 89
2002 Old Vines Chardonnay (French Oak)
For comparison Lenko poured me the 2002 to see how the flavours had integrated. And indeed this wine was more balanced and complex with buttery caramel, butterscotch, smoke, hazelnut, and golden delicious apple. I like the faint smokiness. Maybe the 2004 will come along with some time. $29.95 90
2004 Old Vines Merlot
A bit stemy and green with the barrel toast coming through stronger than I’d like. Lots of vanilla, fall leaves, fine tannins, plum and red cherry. If the barrel toast was a little less I think it would be better, but if you’re not as sensitive to burnt wood as I am you’d probably rate this wine higher. $29.95 89
2004 Cabernet Franc
There is some smoky oak, but not as much as the Merlot, slightly perfumy, sweet strawberry, tobacco leaf, and grippy tannins. Great concentration and it lacks the greenness that can plague Ontario Cab Franc. May improve with some clear time. $24.95 89+
2004 Signature Chardonnay
This was my favourite wine of the tasting. Lenko mentioned peat smoke, but I noticed this more with the Old Vines Chard. Well balanced new oak lending some vanilla with mineral, citrus, and apple notes. The mouthfeel is round and the finish is very long with persistent suave pear and apple flavours. The fruit is juicy and the length and quality of the finish make for a powerful and distinctive wine. Strangely enough the wording on the website is similar to mine “…aged in French oak for 18 months, its depth, power, viscosity and complexity are unmatched” despite Lenko having said nothing of the sort to me – after tying the wine I can say he isn’t lying. $39.95 92
Lenko definitely has a solid line up, all his wines show the ripeness or the fruit he uses (thanks to low yields all the grapes reach maturity) and almost all have a silky texture. The only disappointments were the Viogner and American oaked Old Vines Chardonnay, but overall I was impressed and without a doubt I will be keeping an eye on the Chardonnay he produces.
Labels: Niagara
posted by Jason Zacarias | 4:02 p.m.
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