Vintages Burgundy Pre-Release Tasting 2007
Up until now I have had very limited experience with wines from Burgundy, mostly because they are in a price range I seldom venture into. But now, for the reasonable fee (considering the amount of selection) of $95, I was able to select from a wide range of wines from all over Burgundy. The tasting was held at the Fairmount Royal York, which I think was a great venue. My only complaint is that I wish I had more than 2 ½ hours on a weekday night to get to taste all the wines I was interested in. In the end I managed to scribble 22 tasting notes down, a few I didn’t bother writing up. It would have been nice to have a few more Grand Cru Pinots on hand to try as well. Overall though, I think it was a thoroughly satisfying evening.
I’m going to break down my tasting notes by appellation since the best part of enjoying Burgundy is getting to experience the differences in the wines produced by each.
Chablis
Arguably home to the best unoaked Chardonnay in the world.
2004 Chablis Côte de Léchet Réserve - Domaine Bernard Defaix (1er Cru)
This perfumed 1er Cru has faint lychee nut, floral, stone and heavy clay elements with a great silky mouthfeel. Burghound rates it a 91 noting its round yet ‘well delineated’ flavours. $32.95 91
2004 Chablis Bougros Côte Bougerots – William Fèvre (Grand Cru)
This wine has impeccable balance and finesse displaying hazelnut, lime, and light smoke notes. Not overly oaked at all. $64.95 92
2004 Chablis Beauroy – Domaine Pommier (1er Cru)
It seems I disagree with the critics on this one, but it could be more a matter of personal taste in this instance. It is rated 90 in the Toronto Star and 91 by the Wine Advocate. It’s not bad with buttery pear and a pure minerality, but didn’t quite do it for me (especially when compared to what I tried before it). It is clean and pleasant, but doesn’t “explode from the glass” like Pierre Rovani describes in the Wine Advocate. $32.95 88
2004 Chablis Côte de Léchet – Domaine Pommier (1er Cru)
Less buttery oak than the Beauroy (above), more flinty mineral, green apple acidity and a slightly bitter nutty finish. I agree a little more with the Wine Advocate score of 91 here, but I’m not sure what “liquefied stones” taste like. This wine comes from the same vineyard as the first Chablis by Bernard Defaix. $32.95 89
2005 Chablis Le Clos – Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils (Grand Cru)
It’s lightly oaked and smokey, with hazelnut, apple and light citrus elements. It has plenty of weight giving it good mouthfeel. Nice balance. $59.95 90
2002 Chablis Bougros – Domaine de Vauroux (Grand Cru)
Thankfully this Chablis is not overly oaked and has interestingly fruity (apricot) and smoky notes. Very well balanced with great mouthfeel and acidity. $46.95 91
Côte de Beaune
It isn’t as blessed with as many Grand Crus as the Côte de Nuits (only one), but it doesn’t mean there aren’t good wines to be found. I certainly wasn’t disappointed. On average the wines of Beaune are rounder and less robust than those from Nuits.
2004 Beaune Les Vignes Franches - Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils (1er Cru)
This wine is redolent with cherry, earth and a pleasant smokiness. There is an apple cider like note on the nose to me, as well as a few green notes that I don’t like, but overall not bad. Rated 90 on Burghound ‘subtle earth…cherry infused’ – I agree. $63.95 88
2004 Beaune Bressandes - Domaine Albert Morot (1er Cru)
Some Macintosh apple, a little green, nothing that really distinguishes it from the other wines. I think it needs at least 2 years to settle. $49.95 88
2003 Beaune La Montée Rouge - Domaine de la Vougeraie (1er Cru)
It has great weight yet it almost evapourates off the tongue leaving flavours of cherry and well integrated smoky oak. After the tasting I found out that it got a 91 form the Toronto Star ‘Smokey purity’ and 91 from Wine Spectator ‘round and fleshy…like silk...black cherry’. I agree. $44.95 90
2004 Beaune Clos de la Mousse - Bouchard Père & (1er Cru)
Quite a hefty wine with plum, raspberry, blueberry and pomegranate fruit make for a heady slightly perfumed aroma (I love that Pinot perfume). I wish I could air it out and see how it develops. Not terribly complex right now but it should develop nicely in the next 3 years. Rated a 90 in the Toronto Star. $45.95 88-91 (depending on how it ages)
2004 Beaune Clos Saint-Landry - Bouchard Père & (1er Cru)
(White wine.) The oak is a little too much despite what the representative says about it being balanced (it doesn’t have enough acid to manage the oak). Golden Delicious apple notes. It’s simple (certainly not properly reflected in the price). $54.95 88
2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot - Château de Sully (1er Cru)
(White wine.) Nice toasty (not in an overly oaked way) and floral aromas, but it’s a little overdone on the sweet fruit and finishes a touch hot. With a little more balance it would be better, but who am I to say? Some tasters more familiar with Chassagne-Montrachet thought it wasn’t bad so don’t take my word alone. $74.95 88
2004 Corton Les Bressandes - Domaine Prince Florent de Merode (Grand Cru)
A little green/vegetal for me but still nice since there are solid beetroot, loam/earth, and sweet strawberry elements to carry it through. A silky mouth feel and long finish with lingering plum complete the package. If the greenness dissipated with age I would improve the score. 90 from Burghound, Meadows notes it has less mineral and more earth than usual. Price is decent for a Grand. $65.95 89+
2003 Volnay Santenots - Domaine Georges Glantenay et Fils (1er Cru)
I learned that Volnay Santenots actually lies in neighbouring Meursault’s boundries, but Meursault is only allowed to make whites (by AC rules), so reds get labeled as Les Santenots. Trivia aside, this wine is has sweet cherry and plum in a ripe but still elegant package. It is elegant like the Brouillards, also from Glantenay (below), but has a bit more extract. There is a hint of sweetness, prune and heat from the warm vintage but this doesn’t detract from the overall impression. The finish is long. $59.95 91+
2004 Volnay Brouillards - Domaine Georges Glantenay et Fils (1er Cru)
Rounded and loaded with Pinot perfume of cherry and beetroot. There is a balance of fruit and earth that is quite nice. It’s elegant and feminine just like I’ve heard Volnay described (perhaps a stereotype, but its true here). Quite seductive! $59.95 90
Côte de Nuits
This part of the Côte d’Or is home to the best Pinot Noir in the world. The best wines are big and of unparalleled depth. The highly coveted wines made by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti come from here (my ultimate wine goal is to try one of these some day).
2004 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes - Domaines François Labet Château de la Tour (Grand Cru)
This was one of only two Grand Cru reds available for tasting so I had high hopes for it. Unfortunately, it was probably the largest let down of the evening. I’ve since read that Clos Vougeot is one of the largest Grand Crus and can vary a lot in quality with the best producers being at the top of the slope. It smells lightly of canned vegetables and something herbaceous (to me it’s definitely dill but the guy doing the pouring didn’t think so). There is some light oak and red fruit to save this one somewhat. It has some structure for aging, so maybe this one will improve in time? The price in out of whack. $149.95 86
2002 Morey-Saint-Denis - Maison Joseph Drouhin
This is quite nice with light sandalwood and spice (cloves, licorice), followed by lower notes of cherry and earth. A slightly sweet vanilla and coffee edge complete the profile. More subdued than the Gevrey-Chambertin by Drouhin. For some reason it didn’t impact me very much, but this was later in the tasting. $55.95 88
2004 Morey-Saint-Denis Chenevery - Grands Vins de Bourgogne Alain Jeanniard (1er Cru)
A full and brawny wine that needs a few years in the cellar (it would also benefit from some time in the glass). Raspberry and red fruits. It’s good but not a standout. $69.95 89
2003 Gevrey-Chambertin - Maison Joseph Drouhin
When tasted back to back with the Morey-Saint-Denis of the same producer it comes across as fuller with more tannins, but also a little coarser. The heat of the vintage certainly shows in the riper fruit (faintly pruney, not overripe though). It is a masculine wine with a sweet edge. $60.15 89+
2004 Chambolle-Musigny Vieille Vigne - Domaine Pierre Naigeon (1er Cru)
Chambolle-Musigny is sometimes referred to as the Volnay of the Côte de Nuits, and I’d have to say that out of all the wines from the Nuits I tried it was the most Volnay like (silky, feminine). This wine was a highlight of the evening for me, it had huge weight in the mouth for a Pinot, it was silky and almost too thick and mouth coating. It coated the mouth with a perfume of earthy beets and ripe black cherry. Despite the weight it didn’t come across as off balance. Other tasters were quite impressed with this one too. $69.95 92
Côte Châlonnaise
Just south of the Côte d’Or this region has five AC villages, of which Rully is one.
I’m going to break down my tasting notes by appellation since the best part of enjoying Burgundy is getting to experience the differences in the wines produced by each.
Chablis
Arguably home to the best unoaked Chardonnay in the world.
2004 Chablis Côte de Léchet Réserve - Domaine Bernard Defaix (1er Cru)
This perfumed 1er Cru has faint lychee nut, floral, stone and heavy clay elements with a great silky mouthfeel. Burghound rates it a 91 noting its round yet ‘well delineated’ flavours. $32.95 91
2004 Chablis Bougros Côte Bougerots – William Fèvre (Grand Cru)
This wine has impeccable balance and finesse displaying hazelnut, lime, and light smoke notes. Not overly oaked at all. $64.95 92
2004 Chablis Beauroy – Domaine Pommier (1er Cru)
It seems I disagree with the critics on this one, but it could be more a matter of personal taste in this instance. It is rated 90 in the Toronto Star and 91 by the Wine Advocate. It’s not bad with buttery pear and a pure minerality, but didn’t quite do it for me (especially when compared to what I tried before it). It is clean and pleasant, but doesn’t “explode from the glass” like Pierre Rovani describes in the Wine Advocate. $32.95 88
2004 Chablis Côte de Léchet – Domaine Pommier (1er Cru)
Less buttery oak than the Beauroy (above), more flinty mineral, green apple acidity and a slightly bitter nutty finish. I agree a little more with the Wine Advocate score of 91 here, but I’m not sure what “liquefied stones” taste like. This wine comes from the same vineyard as the first Chablis by Bernard Defaix. $32.95 89
2005 Chablis Le Clos – Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils (Grand Cru)
It’s lightly oaked and smokey, with hazelnut, apple and light citrus elements. It has plenty of weight giving it good mouthfeel. Nice balance. $59.95 90
2002 Chablis Bougros – Domaine de Vauroux (Grand Cru)
Thankfully this Chablis is not overly oaked and has interestingly fruity (apricot) and smoky notes. Very well balanced with great mouthfeel and acidity. $46.95 91
Côte de Beaune
It isn’t as blessed with as many Grand Crus as the Côte de Nuits (only one), but it doesn’t mean there aren’t good wines to be found. I certainly wasn’t disappointed. On average the wines of Beaune are rounder and less robust than those from Nuits.
2004 Beaune Les Vignes Franches - Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils (1er Cru)
This wine is redolent with cherry, earth and a pleasant smokiness. There is an apple cider like note on the nose to me, as well as a few green notes that I don’t like, but overall not bad. Rated 90 on Burghound ‘subtle earth…cherry infused’ – I agree. $63.95 88
2004 Beaune Bressandes - Domaine Albert Morot (1er Cru)
Some Macintosh apple, a little green, nothing that really distinguishes it from the other wines. I think it needs at least 2 years to settle. $49.95 88
2003 Beaune La Montée Rouge - Domaine de la Vougeraie (1er Cru)
It has great weight yet it almost evapourates off the tongue leaving flavours of cherry and well integrated smoky oak. After the tasting I found out that it got a 91 form the Toronto Star ‘Smokey purity’ and 91 from Wine Spectator ‘round and fleshy…like silk...black cherry’. I agree. $44.95 90
2004 Beaune Clos de la Mousse - Bouchard Père & (1er Cru)
Quite a hefty wine with plum, raspberry, blueberry and pomegranate fruit make for a heady slightly perfumed aroma (I love that Pinot perfume). I wish I could air it out and see how it develops. Not terribly complex right now but it should develop nicely in the next 3 years. Rated a 90 in the Toronto Star. $45.95 88-91 (depending on how it ages)
2004 Beaune Clos Saint-Landry - Bouchard Père & (1er Cru)
(White wine.) The oak is a little too much despite what the representative says about it being balanced (it doesn’t have enough acid to manage the oak). Golden Delicious apple notes. It’s simple (certainly not properly reflected in the price). $54.95 88
2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot - Château de Sully (1er Cru)
(White wine.) Nice toasty (not in an overly oaked way) and floral aromas, but it’s a little overdone on the sweet fruit and finishes a touch hot. With a little more balance it would be better, but who am I to say? Some tasters more familiar with Chassagne-Montrachet thought it wasn’t bad so don’t take my word alone. $74.95 88
2004 Corton Les Bressandes - Domaine Prince Florent de Merode (Grand Cru)
A little green/vegetal for me but still nice since there are solid beetroot, loam/earth, and sweet strawberry elements to carry it through. A silky mouth feel and long finish with lingering plum complete the package. If the greenness dissipated with age I would improve the score. 90 from Burghound, Meadows notes it has less mineral and more earth than usual. Price is decent for a Grand. $65.95 89+
2003 Volnay Santenots - Domaine Georges Glantenay et Fils (1er Cru)
I learned that Volnay Santenots actually lies in neighbouring Meursault’s boundries, but Meursault is only allowed to make whites (by AC rules), so reds get labeled as Les Santenots. Trivia aside, this wine is has sweet cherry and plum in a ripe but still elegant package. It is elegant like the Brouillards, also from Glantenay (below), but has a bit more extract. There is a hint of sweetness, prune and heat from the warm vintage but this doesn’t detract from the overall impression. The finish is long. $59.95 91+
2004 Volnay Brouillards - Domaine Georges Glantenay et Fils (1er Cru)
Rounded and loaded with Pinot perfume of cherry and beetroot. There is a balance of fruit and earth that is quite nice. It’s elegant and feminine just like I’ve heard Volnay described (perhaps a stereotype, but its true here). Quite seductive! $59.95 90
Côte de Nuits
This part of the Côte d’Or is home to the best Pinot Noir in the world. The best wines are big and of unparalleled depth. The highly coveted wines made by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti come from here (my ultimate wine goal is to try one of these some day).
2004 Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes - Domaines François Labet Château de la Tour (Grand Cru)
This was one of only two Grand Cru reds available for tasting so I had high hopes for it. Unfortunately, it was probably the largest let down of the evening. I’ve since read that Clos Vougeot is one of the largest Grand Crus and can vary a lot in quality with the best producers being at the top of the slope. It smells lightly of canned vegetables and something herbaceous (to me it’s definitely dill but the guy doing the pouring didn’t think so). There is some light oak and red fruit to save this one somewhat. It has some structure for aging, so maybe this one will improve in time? The price in out of whack. $149.95 86
2002 Morey-Saint-Denis - Maison Joseph Drouhin
This is quite nice with light sandalwood and spice (cloves, licorice), followed by lower notes of cherry and earth. A slightly sweet vanilla and coffee edge complete the profile. More subdued than the Gevrey-Chambertin by Drouhin. For some reason it didn’t impact me very much, but this was later in the tasting. $55.95 88
2004 Morey-Saint-Denis Chenevery - Grands Vins de Bourgogne Alain Jeanniard (1er Cru)
A full and brawny wine that needs a few years in the cellar (it would also benefit from some time in the glass). Raspberry and red fruits. It’s good but not a standout. $69.95 89
2003 Gevrey-Chambertin - Maison Joseph Drouhin
When tasted back to back with the Morey-Saint-Denis of the same producer it comes across as fuller with more tannins, but also a little coarser. The heat of the vintage certainly shows in the riper fruit (faintly pruney, not overripe though). It is a masculine wine with a sweet edge. $60.15 89+
2004 Chambolle-Musigny Vieille Vigne - Domaine Pierre Naigeon (1er Cru)
Chambolle-Musigny is sometimes referred to as the Volnay of the Côte de Nuits, and I’d have to say that out of all the wines from the Nuits I tried it was the most Volnay like (silky, feminine). This wine was a highlight of the evening for me, it had huge weight in the mouth for a Pinot, it was silky and almost too thick and mouth coating. It coated the mouth with a perfume of earthy beets and ripe black cherry. Despite the weight it didn’t come across as off balance. Other tasters were quite impressed with this one too. $69.95 92
Côte Châlonnaise
Just south of the Côte d’Or this region has five AC villages, of which Rully is one.
2005 Rully – Maison Pierre André Château de Corton André
Definitely different than what I had all evening, it’s very ripe and a little candied (maple syrup). Peach, slight tropical fruit with some balancing acid, but not to my tastes though. $29.95 87
Bourgogne
Simple, less expensive wines from all over the region.
2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir - Domaine Parent
This wine offers good value in a field of mostly over priced wines. Perfumed with spicy plum and a little mustiness this wine had a medium body for a Pinot. If you want a taste of Burgundy but without the financial damage consider this wine. $19.95 88
Bourgogne
Simple, less expensive wines from all over the region.
2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir - Domaine Parent
This wine offers good value in a field of mostly over priced wines. Perfumed with spicy plum and a little mustiness this wine had a medium body for a Pinot. If you want a taste of Burgundy but without the financial damage consider this wine. $19.95 88
Labels: Burgundy, Chablis, Pinot Noir
posted by Jason Zacarias | 6:47 p.m.
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