A New World Cabernet Sauvignon Trio
The common gustatory and olfactory characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon are plum, cassis (black currant), and cedar with green nuances (like bell pepper) when grown in cooler climates. With aging a deeper bouquet may emerge (earthy, tobacco, and woody).
Despite its popularity I’ve always found unblended Cabs to be a bit too homogenous and boring for my tastes, but there are some exceptions of course. Here I cover 3 Cabs from parts of the New World known for producing nice examples: California, South Australia, and Chile.
2003 Cabernet Sauvignon – Liberty School (Paso Robles, California)
My first bottle was spoiled but after getting a new one I was pleased; very plumy, mild licorice, cherry and minty cedar with a smooth caramel feel and taste. Easy drinking, smooth with a bit of sweetness midfinish. Available as am Essential at Vintages (i.e. usually in stock). Drinking well now. $19.95 VG
2003 “Grey Label” Cabernet Sauvignon – Wolf Blass (Langhorne Creek, Australia)
Sweet Vanilla from the oak and a bit of saw dust, cherry, black currant, and eucalyptus comprise my taste impression of this wine. Not too much tannin, oak and cherry linger on the finish with a touch of spice. Well made but not my style exactly (still good though). I was expecting a little more backbone at this price range. This wine doesn’t need aging to be enjoyed – drink now until late 2007. $29.90 VG-E
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Casa Lapostolle (Rapel Valley, Chile)
This is more my style of Cab, it’s satisfying like dark chocolate. This is part of the entry level Classic line and I think it represents a good value. It has the typical cedar and plum/cassis nuances as well as some smoky cigar and cocoa/coffee notes which develop with time in the glass. The best thing about this wine is that it gets better and better in the glass, it’s even better the day after opening. Very satisfying in the mouth: full with enough complexity to keep you sipping. Like a good Cab should, it will age another 5 years easily or you can decant it a few hours before drinking. (There is 15% Carmenère mixed in – perhaps accounting for the coca note?) Should be around $16 in Canada (was bought in the US at $13). VG-E
Of the three I think it’s obvious the Lapostolle is my favourite; it has all the hallmarks of a Cab, it has aging potential, character, and it costs the least. I think the first two are catering more to the softer drink now market, which is fine because they are both good, but I think Cabernet is supposed to be tannic and require aging. Softer wines are often less complex and concentrated. Call me old fashioned but I know how I like my Cabernet Sauvignon.
Labels: Cabernet Sauvignon
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