Niagara Wine Tour July 2006

This was my second tour through the Niagara region to do tastings at wineries I didn’t get to the first time and see what the newly released vintages had to offer. Overall I was not as impressed with the wines as I was last time, but it was still a fun experience.

I will list the wines tasted by winery.

Thirty Bench
Our first stop on the tour. There are complimentary tastings, but if you want to try the whole line in a structured tasting it’s $10. I thought that although the wines were good they were overpriced.

2005 Riesling (Beamsville Bench) – Lots of grapefruit and clean citrus. Despite a modest 11.4% alcohol it seems too hot on the nose and palate. Quite fruity, maybe some slate. $18 G-VG (my tasting buddy was not fond of it at all).

2002 Benchmark Blend Red – A medium toast on the barrels, peppery (green and black), a little too green for me, not a lot of tannin. Unripe blackberry and cherry. $25 VG-G

2002 Benchmark Reserve Pinot Noir – Earthy vegetation, beetroot, a touch stemy (bitter greenness from the grape stems), nice concentration for an Ontario Pinot, but pricey. $50 VG

Angels Gate
Almost right across the street from Thirty Bench. There is also a restaurant with a nice patio overlooking the vineyard. 4 complimentary tastings and friendly staff when I was there.

2005 Riesling – A little lees, clean and light, citrus and green apple. There seems to be a slight oxidation (perhaps from the bottle being open too long). $13.95 G

2005 Gewürzstraminer – Tons of lychee! It is unmistakable in the aroma and on the palate. Good mouth feel; thick and oily almost. Kind of one dimensional, though one of the more interesting wines of the day. $15.95 VG

2004 Cabernet Franc – Touch of woody tobacco, orange rind, a little toasty, a bit spicy and full in the mouth. $18.95 VG

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon – Honestly I don’t notice much difference from the Cab Franc other than some cassis. $19.95 G-VG

Vineland Estates
Picturesque winery with a nice tasting bar and restaurant. 50¢ for a non-reserve tasting, $2+ for a reserve which is waived with a wine purchase.

2004 St. Urban Riesling – Quite a bit of acidity, lemony mineral and crisp, though I would not expect this in a Riesling I think there is some gooseberry too. $20 VG-G

2004 Pinot Noir Reserve – Very strong strawberry and rhubarb. I was told that due to the previous vintage selling out so quickly they released this a little early since it was drinking well; I agree, it’s young but good. Maybe some mint in there too. It’s perfumed, not smoky, with a velvety mouthfeel. Best red of the day. $40 VG-E

2004 Cabernet-Merlot Reserve – Barnyard and stale smoke, it smells like an old wood church. I’m not sure what’s going on here, the wine seems ok otherwise. There is some red fruit. $40 G-F

Creekside Estate
Small tasting bar, looks like a little patio to get some grub too. $2 Reserve, $1 estate. The wines I tried had amazing extract for Ontario reds, I was most impressed in this respect.

2002 Merlot Reserve – a little bitter from all that time in oak (23 months), light toast, it gets better with air. It is quite concentrated and full bodied with notes of plum and currant. Something slightly sharp in the nose (minor bottle flaw probably). $25 VG-G

2001 Signature Grand Meritage – Smoky, slightly stemy, and also heavily oaked. There is a touch of herbaciousness, but overall not very interesting to me. The plus is the good extract and body. Give this wine time in a decanter before serving. I liked it better than the Merlot. $34.95 VG

Stratus
I admire the effort they have put in to make this winery energy efficient, more people should follow their lead. The design around the bar is open and well lit. They also had some of the most impressive wines of the day. What I didn’t like was the slightly pretentious air and ridiculous tasting fees ($4 individual - baah! and $10 for 3 or more if they are feeling generous), you even get a receipt.

2002 Riesling – Beeswax, honeysuckle, mineral, citrus, and healthy petrol, all backed by balanced acidity. Very Germanic in style, closer to great German Riesling than any Ontario wine I’ve had so far. The most complex and luscious white of the day. Almost worth the $26. VG-E

2002 Stratus White – Don’t call it a blend, it’s an ‘assemblage’ of 6 separately vinified varieties you know. It has a complex perfume that you would expect given all the varieties used, I think I sense some Gewürtz and Sauv Blanc. Overall quite floral with some tangerine, and interestingly bubble gum too. It’s complex but didn’t blow me away or anything. Under $30 might be more reasonable. 91 from Wine Access $38 VG

2002 Merlot – Smokey, green bell and black pepper, cumin (both tasters noted this, surprising). Nice mouthfeel, decent extract and not bitter. Quite standard, like a lot of other upper end Ontario Merlot (save the cumin bit). $55 VG

2002 Riesling Icewine – There is honey, candied apricots, petrol, and a strong whiff of raisins. Amazing oily mouthfeel, it is sweet and heavy yet evaporates off the tongue leaving a very satisfied look on this tasters face! Spectacular. The only fault I can find is the over raisiny element reminds me of grade school lunch (but that’s just me). Best of the day, and nice value for an icewine this good. $37 E-VG

Jackson-Triggs
Busy wine bar which partly explains the poor service (maybe because I look young), but even in the empty reserve tasting room it took way too long before someone came over and acknowledged us. Proprietors Reserve (PR) – free, Proprietors Grand Reserve (PGR) ~$3 ea.

2005 Gewürzstraminer PR – Fresh lychee with overtones of rotten fruit and spice. Lacks a bit of body (unlike the one from Angels Gate). Decent value $10.90 G

2003 Meritage PR– Like every other red we tried almost; i.e. smoke and a touch of steminess. There is some cherry and decent acidity with a nice finish. Good for the money – if you want a marginally better Ontario red you will have to pay much more. $13.85 G-VG

2004 Delaine Vinyard Chardonnay PGR – Light oak, biscuit/popcorn, fresh citrus and green apple. Nothing special for me. Around $19 G

That’s a wrap for now. I hope these reviews help someone find something they like or decide which wineries they might visit.