Argentinean Malbec

Malbec (also known as Côt) is an interesting grape variety; although it has gained recognition as being the premier varietal of Argentina it was never very successful in its homeland of France. The only appellation in France that still utilizes a large amount of Malbec is Cahors (where it is often called Auxerrois to make things even more complicated).

Wanting to see what all the hype was about I did a tasting of 4 Argentinean Malbecs:

2002 ‘Catena’ Malbec – Bodegas Catena Zapata
This Malbec comes from 3 different vineyards at different altitudes. Very ripe fruit: black cherry mostly with some raspberry and black currant. Touch of spice and buttery lightly toasted oak. Well structured with fine tannins, this wine is smooth with good length. It’s easy to drink too quickly (especially at 14% alcohol). Good all around wine but nothing unique enough about it for me to recognize as distinctly Argentinean Malbec. Approximately $20.
91 from Wine Spectator.
My rating: VG-E

2004 ‘Alamos’ Malbec - Bodegas Catena Zapata
Coming form the Mendoza this Malbec is from the same producer as the wine above, but its $8 cheaper (entry level Alamos range). Aromas are light and lively: sour cherry, plum and ripe raspberry. The palate is similar with some spice and noticeable oak. Light ruby colour. This wine needs to breathe a bit in order to open up because it is a touch young I think.
VG-G

2003 Malbec – Bodegas Del Fin Del Mundo
This wine comes from the ‘end of the world’ Patagonia, not what one would think of when contemplating imbibing great wine. This Malbec impresses with plum, cocoa, ripe raspberry nuances following through with a rich chocolate coffee, but slightly sour palate (which is minimized with breathing). Similar price as the wine above.
VG-G

2004 ‘Reserva’ Malbec – Santa Julia (Familia Zuccardi)
Olive, a touch of smoke and a definite meaty and cocoa element. The fruit is not so evident before the wine has a chance to air out, but there are boysenberry and plum elements. Wine Spectator gave it 89 and said it was a beefy wine with dark fruit, smoked meat, dark fruit, and spicy oak. I would have to agree with that description. There is some toasty French oak I’m sure and a certain meaty richness that I love. A good deal of acidity which allows it to pair well with food, but doesn’t lead itself to sipping alone. Once again breathing a few minutes improved this wine quite a bit. $14.95.
VG-E

The best Malbec for the money would have to be the Santa Julia followed by the Del Fin Del Mundo, the two wines from Catena are both solid wines but don’t have the varietal character that the Santa Julia has (black fruit like plum and boysenberry; cocoa; and ‘meaty’ are common Malbec indicators). If you prefer more polished New World style wines I’d go for the ‘Catena’; if you want to see what Argentinean Malbec is about the Santa Julia is the place to start.

All of the wines I tasted were of good quality and I will be drinking many more Malbecs form Argentina for sure.

A note for Ontario consumers: there are still bottles of the Santa Julia available at Vintages at the time of this posting (LCBO No. 665026).